FoodNetArchive

Cooking for profit

1886

Page 351

Presented as published in 1886. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Evidently the stand itself is of sil- ver, one of those pieces of "massive family plate" so often mentioned in relation to old and titled families. The cook's work is the four boned partridges finely decorated, the ela- the two raised baskets at the sides, the waxen bird and basket at top, the waxen figure of the cook him- self and his benign angel at the bot- tom, very likely with a white vax floor and decorations to stand upon. COOKING FOR PROFIT. 307 APPKNDIX. CAMOVITO'S DINNERS. Because all large dinners in New York are given at Delmonico's, the Brunswick, the Fifth Avenue or the Hoffman House, it is an error to suppose that a really artistic table- spread is never produced outside of those establishments. Steward Ca- movito, of the Union League club, has arranged some dinners that have never been excelled in this town. The members of the club consider him a genius in his way. President Grant's dinner to Diaz, before refer- red to, was a case in point. Photo- graphs of the big, round table made especially for the purpose, taken just before the guests set down, give but a faint idea of their magnificence. At the dinner Senator Evarts gave to the French naval visitors and the Bartholdi committee, not long ago, Camovito's model of the statue of Liberty was a triumph of the confec- tioner's skill. He surrounded Bedloe's Island with natural water clear as crystal, had the Isere and French war ships riding at anchor, and illuminated Liberty's torch with a littl'e incandescent lamp that sparkled like a diamond in a lady's ring. At the Wiman dinner he bridged the Arthur Kill with a towering struc- ture of gelatine and sugar with a train of Baltimore and Ohio cars crossing it, and he set afloat a ferry- boat of white sugar to carry the passengers that Mr. Wiman hopes to capture from the Pennsylvania road if his air castle don't break down. Camovito spends as much time and care over planning a big dinner as some architects do over designing a new house. He told me once that he often laid awake nights thinking over some litte surprise peculiarly applicable to the occasion of the din- ner or the guest of the evening. To be sure he gets well paid for it, and he ought to. He is one of the dozen or more chefs in New York who can command as high a salary as a successful preacher. The tables were appropriately decorated when the Boston Com- mercial Club gave a dinner to some railroad men. The central piece re- presented a complete train, with engine and tender two feet high, made entirely of roses, pinks, violets, and other flowers. It extended nearly half across the President's table. At a private dinner recently on Brooklyn Heights, where many epi- cures reside and are not wanting in hospitality, the ice cream, served on a silver platter in front of the hostess. 208 COOKING FOR PROFIT. was in the form of a watermelon, and when cut, the deception was excellently preserved. At a luncheon given by the Vis- countess Combermere the table de- corations consisted of a carpet of moss dotted with real primroses. In the centre rose a bank of moss, upon which was a gold efergne filled with oranges, relieved by little bunches of primroses. The edge of the table was trailed and framed with ivy.