" Miss Beecher referred to bread which is al- lowed to rise in mass, after all the flour is in ; and which is kneaded the last» time only just enough to shape it into loaves ; but in this bread which we are now baking, we dispense with this last moulding, as I think the bread sweeter with- out it. In the earlier stages of the process there is no danger of working bread too much ; but, after all the flour is in, and has been well worked and perfectly fermented, the less it is manipulated and the sooner it is put to bake, the better." "Cousin Kate, why do you prefer these small pans for baking, to a large pan, which would hold all four of the loaves ? " "For the reason given in the extract just read, that ' the excellence of bread depends on the per- fection of its air-cells, that one of the objects of baking is to fix these air-cells, and that the quicker this can be done through the whole mass, the bet- ter will the result be.' " Therefore, bake in small loaves, and let the loaf touch the pan at all points, — not another loaf. I have another reason, because it gives more crust ; and crust is not only palatable, but a physiological necessity. Remember that many a good thing is spoiled in the oven, and when you put the bread in the pans to rise, look after the ransje fire." "Cousin Kate, to return to the bread which is HOW WE MADE BREAD. 27 rising, how am I to know when that critical moment of perfect and exact lightness has come? You have warned me against putting it to bake too soon, and cautioned me not to allow it to stand too long. Miss Beecher has also discoursed elo- quently upon this fine point ; but neither you nor she has explained the signs and signals that shall proclaim, 'Behold, this bread is at the supreme moment of its existence ; it has risen to its best and highest point of perfection.'" " That, Alice, is a difficult thing to do, so much depends upon the close observation and fine dis- crimination of the baker. But when you put bread in the condition of this into the pans, notice the size of the loaf, and allow it in rising to double its bulk. When light, if you press your finger gently upon the top of the loaf it will feel soft and spongy beneath. Press it away slightly from the side of the pan in such manner that you can see the texture or grain, and, if it looks light, put it into the oven ; for 1 would have it bake while rising toward perfection unattained, rather than after having fallen from grace. The taste of the first suggests a better state as possible ; while that of the last is hopelessly flat, stale, and un- profitable. "The bread should be in the oven ten or fifteen minutes before it shows any little brown spots on its surface ; and 'if these appear too soon, lessen 2S COOKING AND CASTLE-BUILDING. the heat, — not by opening the oven-cloor, but by regulating the clamper and draughts of the range. If the bread is not over light when put in the oven, it had better bake too slowly at first than too quickly ; and the heat should be greatest under the loaf.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

" Miss Beecher referred to bread which is allowed to rise in mass, after all the flour is in ; and which is kneaded the last time only just enough to shape it into loaves ; but in this bread which we are now baking, we dispense with this last moulding, as I think the bread sweeter without it. In the earlier stages of the process there is no danger of working bread too much ; but, after all the flour is in, and has been well worked and perfectly fermented, the less it is manipulated and the sooner it is put to bake, the better." "Cousin Kate, why do you prefer these small pans for baking, to a large pan, which would hold all four of the loaves ? " "For the reason given in the extract just read, that ' the excellence of bread depends on the perfection of its air-cells, that one of the objects of baking is to fix these air-cells, and that the quicker this can be done through the whole mass, the better will the result be.' " Therefore, bake in small loaves, and let the loaf touch the pan at all points, — not another loaf. I have another reason, because it gives more crust ; and crust is not only palatable, but a physiological necessity. Remember that many a good thing is spoiled in the oven, and when you put the bread in the pans to rise, look after the range fire." "Cousin Kate, to return to the bread which is rising, how am I to know when that critical moment of perfect and exact lightness has come? You have warned me against putting it to bake too soon, and cautioned me not to allow it to stand too long. Miss Beecher has also discoursed eloquently upon this fine point ; but neither you nor she has explained the signs and signals that shall proclaim, 'Behold, this bread is at the supreme moment of its existence ; it has risen to its best and highest point of perfection.'" " That, Alice, is a difficult thing to do, so much depends upon the close observation and fine discrimination of the baker. But when you put bread in the condition of this into the pans, notice the size of the loaf, and allow it in rising to double its bulk. When light, if you press your finger gently upon the top of the loaf it will feel soft and spongy beneath. Press it away slightly from the side of the pan in such manner that you can see the texture or grain, and, if it looks light, put it into the oven ; for 1 would have it bake while rising toward perfection unattained, rather than after having fallen from grace. The taste of the first suggests a better state as possible ; while that of the last is hopelessly flat, stale, and unprofitable. "The bread should be in the oven ten or fifteen minutes before it shows any little brown spots on its surface ; and 'if these appear too soon, lessen the heat, — not by opening the oven-door, but by regulating the damper and draughts of the range. If the bread is not over light when put in the oven, it had better bake too slowly at first than too quickly ; and the heat should be greatest under the loaf.

Cooking and castle-building