FoodNet

The Cook Book, by "Oscar" of the Waldorf

1896

Page 56

Presented as published in 1896. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Distribution. — The "diamond-back," or "salt-water terrapin" is common along our entire Atlantic coast, from Nantucket and New Bedford, in Massachusetts, to Texas. It also occurs in South America. It was introduced into Italy by the Prince of Canino a number of years ago, but of the success of the enterprise I have been un- able to learn. Those who enter into commerce however are principally from the Chesapeake Bay and the coast of the Carolinas. Some very iine ones also come from Egg Harbor, N. J. Characteristics and Habits. — The diamond-back lives in salt marshes near the coast, and is seldom found far from them. They were formerly very abundant in such localities, and could be often seen on warm days sunning themselves on the bars and flats. But the increasing demand for them and the wholesale capture of old and young have reduced their numbers very materially. The species is a comparatively small one, and varies much in external appearance. The females attain a larger size than the male and are much more highly prized in the market. The average length of the under part of the shell is seven inches, and the weight of the animal four or five pounds. Rarely the length reaches ten inches, and the terrapin weighs about ten pounds. The fixed standard of length for salable females in most markets is six inches, but in some it is as low as five inches. The terrapin having that length are known as "counts." The small specimens are separated into "heifers" and 'Mittle bulls ;" their under shell rarely exceeds five inches in length. As has been already said, they are deemed very inferior to the females, and the price of them is therefore much lower. In regard to the rate of growth, I have seen it stated that the diamond-back reaches maturity, or rather lays eggs when four years old, but this is hardly probable. It docs not accord with the observations of Agassiz and others nor with the peculiari- ties of the group generally. Experiments made by a dealer in North Carolina seem to show that the species grow about one inch each year, so that " counts " are at least six years old. Probably ten years at least elapse before they are fully g^own« Food. — ^What the food of the diamond-back terrapin is does not seem to be exactly known. Very probably, however, it consists of such matter, both animal and vegeta- ble, as the animal is able to find in the marshes in which it lives. When penned, preparatory to sending them to market, they are fed on crabs, oysters and fish. To give them the finest flavor, they are said to be fed upon celery for some days previous to being served. In the winter the tortoise hibernates and takes no food, remaining buried several inches in the mud. Unfortunately for its welfare, a little mound of mud is always raised above the spot where it disappears, which at once catches the eye of the terrapin fisherman. A large proportion of the terrapins arc taken while they are in this torpid condition. Breeding Habits — Like all other species of tortoises, the diamond-back deposits its eggs on land. When the laying season arrives, the female seeks some sandy bar or SHELL-FISH. 121 bank above water, and having excavated a shallow pit with the hind legs, deposits from five to seven eggs. The breeding season occurs in the latter part of June and early part of July. It is said that the young show no disposition to seek the water, but prefer to remain in the sand.