The Cook Book, by "Oscar" of the Waldorf

Crabs are in season from April to September, and in May they lose entirely the dryness of flesh for which they are noted during the winter months. The richest flavored crabs are those of medium size, say from six to ten inches in their broadest diameter. They should be boiled alive, being plunged into cold water, and, as the water warms, a handful or so of salt should be thrown in upon them, and when the ' water has been boiling for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the crabs, they may be considered sufficiently cooked. If placed in hot water at first, they are apt to throw off their claws by a violent jerk, and then the water would soak into the flesh and make it sloppy. After the salt is thrown in, the scum which rises to the top of the water should be carefully skimmed off. The claws of large crabs should be tied to prevent their opening and pinching or injuring each other. Crabs are usually sold ready boiled, which is, of course, a great convenience to the cook, whose next care is that of selection. The best crabs are always heavy, according to size ; the claws and legs should be all on. They should be firm and stiff, and the eyes bright rather than dull. The male crab has larger claws than the female, but less body in proportion, therefore selection should depend upon whether the preference leans to white meat or to the more mellow liver and creamy fat which surrounds it The female also has a much broader tail than the male. Buttered Crab. Remove the meat from a large boiled crab, cut it up small and mix with breadcrumbs and chopped parsley, having about a third of the bulk of the crab meat. Season and put a few pieces of butter over it ; pack it back in the shell, pour over a little lemon juice, cover with a layer of sifted breadcrumbs, place a few more lumps of butter on the top, set in a slow oven and cook until done. Crab Croquettes. Remove the meat from the shells of two medium-sized crabs, and chop it fairly fine. Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, and stir into this three ounces of flour. Add gradually one-half pint of milk, stir until it boils, and then allow it to cook for ten minutes; remove the saucepan from the stove, and to the hot milk, flour and butter add the chopped meat of the crabs, one saltspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne (not more than would lie on the end of a small knife blade), mix thoroughly together, turn the whole out on to a plate and let it cool; when it is fairly cold make it into little rolls nearly three inches long, and breadcrumb these by brushing them all over with beaten egg and then rolling in breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified fat for two minutes, or until they are a nice golden brown, allow them to drain on a sheet of paper for an instant and serve on a folded napkin with a little fried parsley for garnish. Deviled Crabs. Put one-half pound of butter into a saucepan with, one tablespoonful of flour, and cook together, stirring it continually to prevent its burning; add to it one large tumblerful of rich cream, one boiled soft onion mashed to a paste or pulp, a little grated nutmeg, and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Then put in the crab meat, enough to fill eight crab shells and a raw egg or two, stir all together well and cook until it begins to thicken, which will only take a few minutes; then pour it all on a flat dish and allow it to stand until cold. Now fill the back crab shells with the mixture, egg them over with a brush and cover with grated breadcrumbs or cracker dust. Place them in a baking pan, put a small lump of butter on top of each, and bake in a slow oven to a light brown color, or fry them in plenty of hot lard. Crabs in Shells.