The century cook book

Loin of Veal a La Montglas. A fine loin of veal, white and fat, is a remove of the first order, which can be admitted in all dinners. The loin must be cut rather long, trimmed, then trussed, roasted or baked in the oven ; if baked, care must be taken that no liquid be added; it must be cooked in butter and its own fat, without any other liquid, but with moderate heat; if roasted on the spit, it must be wrapped up in buttered paper, and allowed to remain for two hours in front of the fire, not forgetting to unfasten it in time to give it a nice color; it is better to cook the kidney by itself. When the loin is done, the lower and the upper filet must be taken out, the latter cut through and put back in its place; then the loin is dished on a thick layer of thin mashed pota- Artistic Cookery 209 toes* or anything else put on the dish, to keep in the same place; on one of the extremities of a dish, or even upon both, there is fixed a pretty croustade of rice, or bread, or a large white turnip, cut in three parts. The loin is surrounded with two bunches of sweetbread croquettes, between these some small patties are dished up, garnished with a montglas of sweetbread and truffles. On the other side of the dish are two heaps of potatoes a la duchesse, divided by the kidney cut in slices. The two cups are garnished with a montglas prepared with the under filet and truffles, mixed with a cream sauce. There must not be any sauce at the bottom of the dish; but the loin may be accompanied with a half Espagnote, or a light tomato sauce. With veal, some salt meat, ham, or tongue a l'Ecarlate, is generally served. Piece of Beef a La Jardiniere. This piece is taken from the loin of the ox; that is to say, that part which, starting at the extremity of the sirloin, stops at the junction of the lower part of the thigh; the quarter of beef. The loin is the most delicate, savory, and agreeable part of the animal, because the fibers and flesh are rich and interlarded. Done to the exact point, in a good stock, well glazed and garnished, served very hot, the loin of beef can be admitted to the most sumptuous dinners, and will always be welcome. The loin of beef is a rich showy piece, but costly; as fine an appearance as possible must be given to it, in which case it is difficult to employ less than about 30 pounds of meat; for the most delicate part of the loin, what is called the chubb, would not be sufficient to form a remove; a sufficient quantity of meat must therefore be left on it, to give a good shape. The loin of beef, coming from a fine animal, must be covered with a thick coat of fat; after having been boned, it is rolled in its natural way lengthwise, then tied firmly with a string, put into a long stewpan, in which is laid some bacon, cut roots and vegetables; the meat is slightly salted, 210 Artistic Cookery