It now remains to show the order in which the several soii;s of wines enumerated above should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. It is generally admitted by real yoiirmets that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines — those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is to commence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrees, any of the following Burgundy wines : — Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Vermanton, Irancy, Mercui*ey, Chassagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Magon and Auxerre. These may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency. These again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Yolnay, Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanee. "With the second course — roasts, dressed vegetables, and savoury entremets — honour your guests by gi'aciously ushering to their notice sparkling Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumieres, the brilliant Sillery, the glorious Hermitage, Cote-rotie, and Chateau-Grille. "With the service of the entremets de douceur — or, as we have it, the sweets — let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne, or Moselle, be handed round ; but, far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of A'i petiUant Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey, Madeira, and East India Sherry." Mr. Francatelli then proceeds to state, " So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country that it woxild be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner, the list being as follows : — Dessert Wines. Muscat-Frontignan Madeira Muscat-Lunel Malmsey, Madeira Muscat-Rivesalte Sj-racuse Grenache Tokay VindePaiUe Constance Malaga Carcavallos Rota PicoH Alicante Schiras I have before observed that we all of us of necessity approach the subject of wine with a certain amount of pi-ejudice, and I have consequently given at some length Mr. Francatelli's opinion on this subject, written in the year 1862. It should be remembered, too, that Mr. Francatelli occupied during his life the high positions Ixxxii cassell's dictionary of cookery. of chef at the Reform Club, chef to Her Majesty the Queen, and manager of the Fi-eemason's Tavern. It would be affectation in any one, consequently, to despise the opinion of one who had had so much opportunity for studying the tastes of the most wealthy members of what is probably the most luxurious country in the world. Still we must confess that in reading so goodly a list of dessert wines that, not- withstanding the great authority that penned it, Ave feel that it cannot be considered complete without the addition of what may be called our grand national wine — good genuine port. In fact Francatelli wrote for, comparatively speaking, a small class who lead to a gTeat extent artificial lives. In treating generally the subject of the service of wine, exactly the same general principles have to be considered as in treating the subject of food. The two chief points are : first, the habits of life of those served; secondly, the time of year, or, rather, we should say the climate.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

It now remains to show the order in which the several sorts of wines enumerated above should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. It is generally admitted by real gourmets that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines — those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is to commence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrees, any of the following Burgundy wines : — Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Vermanton, Irancy, Mercurey, Chassagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Magon and Auxerre. These may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency. These again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanee. "With the second course — roasts, dressed vegetables, and savoury entremets — honour your guests by graciously ushering to their notice sparkling Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumières, the brilliant Sillery, the glorious Hermitage, Cote-rotie, and Chateau-Grille. "With the service of the entremets de douceur — or, as we have it, the sweets — let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne, or Moselle, be handed round ; but, far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of Vin pétillant Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey, Madeira, and East India Sherry." Mr. Francatelli then proceeds to state, " So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country that it would be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner, the list being as follows : — Dessert Wines. Muscat-Frontignan Madeira Muscat-Lunel Malmsey, Madeira Muscat-Rivesalte Syracuse Grenache Tokay Vin de Paille Constance Malaga Carcavallos Rota PicoH Alicante Schiras I have before observed that we all of us of necessity approach the subject of wine with a certain amount of prejudice, and I have consequently given at some length Mr. Francatelli's opinion on this subject, written in the year 1862. It should be remembered, too, that Mr. Francatelli occupied during his life the high positions Ixxxii cassell's dictionary of cookery. of chef at the Reform Club, chef to Her Majesty the Queen, and manager of the Freemason's Tavern. It would be affectation in any one, consequently, to despise the opinion of one who had had so much opportunity for studying the tastes of the most wealthy members of what is probably the most luxurious country in the world. Still we must confess that in reading so goodly a list of dessert wines that, notwithstanding the great authority that penned it, we feel that it cannot be considered complete without the addition of what may be called our grand national wine — good genuine port. In fact Francatelli wrote for, comparatively speaking, a small class who lead to a gTeat extent artificial lives. In treating generally the subject of the service of wine, exactly the same general principles have to be considered as in treating the subject of food. The two chief points are : first, the habits of life of those served; secondly, the time of year, or, rather, we should say the climate.

Cassell's dictionary of cookery