Cassell's dictionary of cookery

The best method of preparing batter is as follows : — Take half a pint of milk, and mix it up thoroughly with the yolk of an egg, adding a pinch of salt, then gradually add sufficient flour till the whole has become of a consistency rather thicker than double cream. This batter should be mixed in a large basin, and worked perfectly smooth with a wooden spoon. We have before remarked on the importance of making entrees the means of using up the materials that have been left from the previous day. One very useful form is that of salmi of game. Too often the remains of game are sent up, almost as they are, cold for breakfast, the result being that a large portion is wasted, the bones being almost invariably left half picked on the plates, while the gravy that was on the dish with the hot game the day before, and into which what may be termed almost the essence of the bird has run, is very probably wasted altogether. Suppose, therefore, some remains of pheasants, partridges, or indeed any other kind of game, is sent down from dinner, a most delicious entree can be made as follows : — Cut off all the best parts of the meat, such as the wings, legs, breast, &c., and trim Iviii cassell's dictionary of cookery. them neatly. Should it be found that there is not quite sufficient, very often the addition of a single bird more, which can be roasted on purpose, will complete the dish. Next take all the remains — the carcasses, trimmings, &c. — and put them on to boil gently in the remains of the gravy that was served with the game the day before. After these bones have boiled so that they come out perfectly dry, send the gravy and the small pieces of game that have fallen from the bones in it through a wire sieve — this will have the effect of thickening the gravy, and also of imparting to it a decidedly " gamey " flavour. Add to this sauce — suppose say half a pint in quantity, or a little more — about a wine-glassful of sherry. It is astonishing how this, glass of sherry helps to bring about a complete alteration of flavour. This salmi sauce is now complete, and the joints of game have simply to be warmed up in it, taking care, if the game was sufficiently cooked on the first day, that it remains on the fire only sufficiently long to warm it through and no longer, as otherwise the game would get over-cooked, and become hard and flavourless. We have recommended sherry to be added to the sauce, but at the same time would acknowledge the superior qualities of madeira for the purpose. Unfortunately, madeira has of late years been rarely seen, though I believe there is every prospect of its becoming more plentiful in a few years' time. Madeira can now be bought from respectable wine merchants at from 36s. to 48s. a dozen, and is a far cheaper wine in quality than any sherry that can be bought at the same price. Whenever sherry is used for cooking pui'poses, golden sherry is better than a pale dry wine. One most important point in the serving of entrees is their appearance. The cook should endeavour to please the eye as an accessory to the palate.