FoodNetArchive

Cassell's dictionary of cookery

1892

Page 18

Presented as published in 1892. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
We have already called attention to the fact that the palate is considerably affected by the eye, so also is it affected by the nose. The best illustration of this is a glass of fine old Burgundy or Chateau Margaux claret, in which, in addition to the flavour, and the colour or brightness, we have the magnificent bouquet, which appeals to the palate through the organs of scent. Accordingly it becomes an important princvple in cooking to consider not only the flavour and appearance, but also to use the sense of smell as a criterion whether a dish is being properly prepared or not. Who does not recollect occasionally passing outside some large restaurant or first-class hotel and being greeted with a rich perfume arising through the railings, which somehow inspired perfect con- fidence in the dinner about to be sei'ved % On the other hand, has it been your fate to dine where you have had placed immediately in front of you a dish of greens improperly strained % To some persons of sensitive palate and nose a dinner is absolutely spoilt by a little contretemps of this kind. In the preparation of all dishes, therefore, the cook should constantly bear in mind the importance of using her scent as well as her palate and her eye. Many a good dish has been utterly spoilt by one of the many ingredients being bad which when added has contaminated the whole, which a very little care in smelling would have prevented. For instance, gravy that has been left, or the remains of beef-tea, is always added to the stock-pot or mixed up with the soup. Now it often happens, especially in hot weather, that little quantities of this kind turn sour, and cassell's dictionary of cookery. ill fact get putrid ! This is easily and instantly detected by smelling. Again, tlie flavour of anything burnt or smoky is best detected by the nose. Who has not at times had soup served that tastes smoky, or an omelette that tastes burnt ] Here again the nose is the quickest organ to detect the fault — a very good proof of which is the common observation heard in the higher regions, such as the staircase or dining room, " Ah, there's something burning !" Sauce i>iquant, if too acid, can be detected by the smell ; soup too greasy can likewise be detected by the smell, as well as dishes over-spiced ; but experience alone will tell when the nose can be used instead of the palate, and it must be borne in mind that good cooks never liQ&p tasting, as the result of that is invariably temporary suspension of palate altogether. KITCHEN MANAGEMENT. Another important pomt in the princij)le of cookery is the management of the kitchen. Now, of all the various points that comprise kitchen management, perhaps none is more important than what we will call "clearing up as you go along." Contrast a well-ordered kitchen with a badly-managed one at that trying moment that cooks call dishing up. In the latter you will find the cook with a flushed face and hurried manner, surrounded by a perfect chaos of dirty saucepans, dishes, spoons, basins, knives and forks ; and woe be to that natural enemy of the cook, the Buttons, who speaks to her under these circumstances. " There, don't bother me, I don't know which way to turn !"