Cassell's dictionary of cookery

a very great extent upon the amount of basting it receives. The more it is basted, the better it will be. A little extra dripping may be used at first until the fat melts ; but when it has once begun to drop freely it should be poured off every now and then, the quantity only which is required for basting being retained in the pan. I'his is to preserve the dripping itself, as it is much better if not allowed to burn. If the joint be very fat, a piece of paper may be fastened over the fat for the first hour. As to the position of the meat before the fire, "doctors disagree." According to Baron Liebig, who is decidedly an oracle, the same principle ought to be observed in roasting as in boiling, that is, the surface should be hardened at once by placing the meat near the fire, and when the escape of the juices has thus been stopped, the meat should be drawn back and slowly finished. The almost universal custom is to place it some distance from the fire at first, baste it liberally, and when it is haK done, and has been gradually well-heated throughout, draw it nearer. The advantage of the latter plan is that it does not require so much time as the former. Besides which great judgment is necessary, if Liebig' s directions are observed, or the meat wiU be either sodden or burnt. The escape of the juices may be prevented by the meat being well basted directly it is put down with wanned dripping. The time required for roasting depends so much upon circumstances that no exact rule can be given. The general rule is a quarter of an hour to the pound, and a quarter of an hour over ; but it must be borne in mind that fat meat takes longer than lean ; and thick meat, such as legs and fillets, longer than thin, such as loins or breasts. White meat, such as pork, and the flesh of young animals, such as veal and lamb, should always be thoroughly dressed ; while mutton and beef is often preferred rather underdone. When meat is just killed, it must be roasted longer than when it has been well kept, and it needs less of the fire in sum.mer than in winter. Beef needs more cooking than mutton. However, it may be known that a joint is nearly done enough when the steam draws freely to the fire ; also when the flesh yields readily and offers no resistance when it is pressed with the fingers. If a joint is sufficiently cooked without being properly browned, it should be put nearer to the fire for a few minutes. If the meat is liked frothed, a little flour should be dredged lightly over it when it is three-parts done. Just before it is served, a little salt may be sprinkled on it. A very small quantity of gravy should be put into the dish with it. More can be sent to table in a tureen. Roasting, Dr. Kitchiner's Observations on. — The following practical remarks are extracted from the " Cook's Oracle" of this famous gourmet. In some respects they may be slightly out of date, but in others they are for all time, and deserving of the most careful attention. Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the chief cardinal virtue of the kitchen : the first preparation for roasting is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand and water — nothing else. When it EOA (760) EOA