Cassell's dictionary of cookery

Another very excellent champagne that does not come from the Champagne district is CortaUlod. This is made in Switzerland; and a bottle has refreshed many PRINCIPLES — ^AUSTRALIAN WINES. a weary traveller after a long walk in the exquisite scenery of the district where it is made. There are, in my opinion, few wines that approach nearer to the pure juice of the grape than Swiss champagne. I think the retail price in this country is about 36s. a dozen. We now come to consider a class of wines that is – I fear but little generally known in this country, and that is Australian wine. Prejudice is a very difficult thing to overcome, and I fear it will be many years before the wines of that rapidlyrising country meet with the reception here that they so thoroughly deserve. The subject, too, of Australian wines should be regarded from a broader view than merely a question of palate. We as a nation each year spend millions and millions of surplus capital — for wine is not really one of the necessaries of life — on encouraging the manufactures and agriculture of France, Spain, Germany, and Portugal, while, comparatively speaking, but a few thousands only go to increase the wealth of a country inhabited by our own flesh and blood, living under the same laws, and obeying and honouring the same Queen. Strange, too, to say, the Government of the mother country at present fails to recognise the claims Australian wines have — they being absolutely shut out even from a chance of holding then- own in open competition, owing to their containing slightly more alcohol than the fixed standard allows — consequently the extra duty that must necessarily be paid takes away all chance of competition with the lighter French claret. Tliere are an astonishing number of persons of real wealth who in the present day buy nothing but the poor thin claret that can be bought at 12s. a dozen. I have no hesitation in saying that the majority of Australian wines are infinitely superior to the cheaj) claret that we are unfortunately sometimes out of politeness compelled to drink. Again, it must be remembered that the cidtivation of the vine in Australia is not matured like it is in France. If we contrast light claret with Chateau Margaux we at once see how much depends upon care in cultivation and also in selection of the grape. The time will probably come when the wine trade of Australia will be one of the greatest means of increasing the wealth of that countiy. We will now run hastily through a few of the principal kinds of wines that that country produces. There are samples that correspond to Hock, Sherry, Burgundy, Claret, and Madeira. We will first take the kind that resembles hock. This is called Piesling ; it is a thin light wine, sold in hock bottles, and is an exceedingly pleasant drink in summer, and is particularly suitable with boiled fish, or after light entrees, such as vol-au-vents. Highercombe is another wine resembling hock, or rather Haut Barsac or Sauterne. Highercombe is a strong-scented wine, and would probably not be liked by those who are partial to an exceedingly dry sherry. On the other hand, when the taste for this wine has been acquired, it is generally very strongly fancied. Some of this wine mixed with a bottle of soda-water will be found a most refreshing drink.