FoodNet

Breakfasts and teas

1907

Page 18

Presented as published in 1907. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
The American hostess will regret when too late, the many advantages of the afternoon tea, alas! fool- ishly sacrificed upon the altar of her vanity to excel in the extravagance of hospitality. Even now ex- perience teaches that "a tea" means anything from its original intention of informal, pleasant social inter- course with light refreshments, to the function which includes hundreds of guests, who are entertained at 48 Breakfasts and Teas a banquet presenting the most expensive achievements of florist and caterer. In repudiation of this is the strict code of etiquette requiring that "an invitation be worded to indicate truthfully the exact character of the hospitality it extends. Courtesy to guests com- pels this, that they may be able to conform in toilet to the occasion and thus avoid the mortification of be- ing under or over-dressed, the latter to be counted as much the greater misfortune." This from a very ancient book, it is true, but its lesson in good man- ners is none the less pertinent now than when written in the dead past. It remains with the hostess, whether one shall enjoy the pleasures and privileges of the pretty Five O'Clock. Whether in the line of elegance or simplicity, the tea Russian or Ceylon, it can be dainty, well served, and lovely with flowers of sweet gracibusness and cordial welcome. These united may be depended upon to make it the social success coveted by every woman who poses as a hostess, whether in cottage or palace ! Nowhere are the artistic instincts of a modern hostess more charmingly brought to bear than in the appoint- ments of her tea-table. To show individuality in this cosy afternoon ceremony, is an aim not difficult to reach. The Russian table should have a cloth with insertion bands of the strong Muscovite peasant lace that is brightened by red and blue threads in the pattern ; a tea caddy of niello work ; and a brass samovar, of course. Facilities for fitting out a Japanese tea-table can be found almost everywhere. The "correct" outfit con- Breakfasts and Teas 49 sists of a low lacquered table, lotus-blossom cups — with covers and without handles — and a plump little teapot heated over an hibachi of glowing charcoal. It is not a Japanese custom to have the tea-table covered, but the famous embroiderers of Yokohama, having learned to cater to foreign tastes, now send out tea-cloths of the sheerest linen lawn, with the national bamboo richly worked in white linen floss above the broad hem-stitched hem. These are exquisitely dainty in appearance, but can be easily and successfully laundered — a very im- portant consideration. But the quaintest of all is the Dutch table, where the sugar basin is supported over the heads of chased silver female figures; the cream jug is in the form of a silver cow, and the beguiling Jamaica shows richly dark through a Black Forest spirit bottle.