POMMES It is possible that Counte Boni de Castellane
CASTEL- invented the potato which bears his name;
LANE jf }^g ^jj^ j^g ought to have proper credit, for
it is a mouthful that is certainly deserving of more
than mild praise. It is a potato baked in its jacket —
and should be a sizeable one. Then, when it is done,
its center is cut out until it is something of a shell, but
with some good, plain potato still clinging to the in-
side. Into it there is stuffed a '' farce " of crayfish, the
mashed yolks and chopped whites of hard-boiled eggs,
with plenty of good cream and seasoning. Then the hole
is closed with a piece of the skin, the potato is put back
into the oven to heat — then served " en surprise."
Imagine the immaculate Count, if you can, preparing
this legume. More likely Paillard or Frederick gave it
its cachet by honoring him with its naming. Count
Boni is indeed an epicure of the younger French school,
which includes Marcel Fouquier, the Due de Morny,
Santos-Dumont, and, if you please, our own James
Hazen Hyde, who has nothing less than a " poached
peach a la James Hazen Hyde " named for him at
Durand's in Paris. The peach is poached like an egg —
and then has kirsch poured over it and ignited. This
completes its cooking, and the burnt kirsch really
makes a most delicious sauce.
104
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes B o u c h e e s
QUAILS The Marquis de Massa really does Invent
A LA dishes. Recently he gave to the world a
MARQUIS delicious morsel in a piquant dish of quails
DE MASSA .
that he has wished to bear the name of a
Capus. The quails are " poached " in a saucepan,
which means " completely cooked at slow ebullition,"
together with a good quantity of Muscatel grapes that
are yet green. When nearly done a finishing touch is
added in a Madeira wine — only a little, remember — but
ah! what fascination!
There is a " school " of latter-day epicures in Paris
to which the great chefs cater, and the result is in
" Lobster Alexander," the " John Osy Zegw^oart veal,"
'' Poulet a la Dr. Pendergast," the fish vol-au-vent
Stanhope, and Lowther, Rathbone, Tuck, J. W.
Mackey, and General Williams eggs — all named by
one Frederick, the only impressionist chef in Paris,
whose specialties are sky-blue sauces, purple stuffings,
and nile-green potages — and the naming of his culi-
nary masterpieces after favorite customers — the rich
Parisian wine merchants from Bercy, and the Amer-
icans.
SAM- Although sweets have not a large place on
BAYON bachelor menus, there is one — a Milanaise
X .^V".^^ delicacy which raises the entire meal from
LANAISE 1 , , 1 , f 1 1 T 1.
the dead level or the usual Italian table
d'hote, and, as prepared by Caruso and Sgbrilia and
other Italians with silver voices, enraptures the eater
quite as much as those mellow high notes. Just try
105
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees
Page 44
Presented as published in 1906. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
POMMES It is possible that Counte Boni de Castellane CASTEL- invented the potato which bears his name; LANE jif all that he ought to have proper credit, for
it is a mouthful that is certainly deserving of more than mild praise. It is a potato baked in its jacket — and should be a sizeable one. Then, when it is done, its center is cut out until it is something of a shell, but with some good, plain potato still clinging to the inside. Into it there is stuffed a '' farce " of crayfish, the mashed yolks and chopped whites of hard-boiled eggs, with plenty of good cream and seasoning. Then the hole is closed with a piece of the skin, the potato is put back into the oven to heat — then served " en surprise." Imagine the immaculate Count, if you can, preparing this legume. More likely Paillard or Frederick gave it its cachet by honoring him with its naming. Count Boni is indeed an epicure of the younger French school, which includes Marcel Fouquier, the Due de Morny, Santos-Dumont, and, if you please, our own James Hazen Hyde, who has nothing less than a " poached peach a la James Hazen Hyde " named for him at Durand's in Paris. The peach is poached like an egg — and then has kirsch poured over it and ignited. This completes its cooking, and the burnt kirsch really makes a most delicious sauce.
Bachelor Bonnes B o u c h e e s
QUAILS The Marquis de Massa really does Invent
A LA dishes. Recently he gave to the world a
MARQUIS delicious morsel in a piquant dish of quails DE MASSA .
that he has wished to bear the name of a
Capus. The quails are " poached " in a saucepan, which means " completely cooked at slow ebullition," together with a good quantity of Muscatel grapes that are yet green. When nearly done a finishing touch is added in a Madeira wine — only a little, remember — but ah! what fascination!
There is a " school " of latter-day epicures in Paris to which the great chefs cater, and the result is in " Lobster Alexander," the "John Osy Zegw^oart veal," '' Poulet a la Dr. Pendergast," the fish vol-au-vent Stanhope, and Lowther, Rathbone, Tuck, J. W. Mackey, and General Williams eggs — all named by one Frederick, the only impressionist chef in Paris, whose specialties are sky-blue sauces, purple stuffings, and nile-green potages — and the naming of his culinary masterpieces after favorite customers — the rich Parisian wine merchants from Bercy, and the Americans.
SAM- Although sweets have not a large place on
BAYON bachelor menus, there is one — a Milanaise
delicacy which raises the entire meal from LANAISE 1 , , 1 , f 1 1 T 1.
the dead level of the usual Italian table
d'hote, and, as prepared by Caruso and Sbrilia and
other Italians with silver voices, enraptures the eater
quite as much as those mellow high notes. Just try
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees