will show you how to do a " Mullig^an " such as w^as
never seen on the Emerald Isle, and the student just
home from Hefdelberg will tell you that no German
restaurant ever serves sauerkraut with such delicious
brown gravy as he learned to make in Germany — not
even Tony Faust of St. Louis, who certainly has this
continent beaten on the food of the Fatherland. The
American Art Student home on his vacation will deftly
prepare a Chateaubriand by grilling a thick fillet be-
tween two slices of rump steak, which contribute their
juices, but are thrown aside while the fillet is being
delicately browned over the hot coals before popping
on the hot platter.
Among some of these good things collected from
bachelors — and some benedicts, too — are a few so
choice that they must be mentioned as a part of the
stock of the Bachelor's Cupboard. " Tell me what a
man eats and FU tell you what he is " is generally a
pretty good rule to follow, but have j^ou ever tried to
tell what a man eats by what he is? That is the more
difficult psychological problem to solve.
There's David Belasco, for instance. One would
imagine that the writer of " Zaza " and " DuBarry "
and all the rest would be something of an epicure, and
want his dishes highly seasoned. As he affirms, there's
many a dish with excellent constituents that fails for
lack of skill in combining them, just as many a good
play is ruined in the building, though the raw material
may be excellent. An artistic proportion should be
98
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees
maintained between Ingredients, he says, just as be-
tween the characters of a play. His Salmi of Goose Is
his favorite entree, and this is how he has It prepared :
SALMI Cut the remains of a roast goose In small
OF oblong pieces, removing the skin and gris-
GOOSE ^jg^ Take the bones and scraps and boil
them down until the water is reduced to a cup of
strong stock. Add to this a carrot, a young turnip, a
tomato, an apple, and a stalk of celery, all cut in dice
and previously parboiled together for ten minutes.
Simmer in the gravy until they will go through a vege-
table press, then put the meat In the stock and cook un-
til tender. Thicken the stock with browned flour✪ Salmi of Goose, put
the goose on some slices of toast, and pour the gravy
over and surround with the vegetable puree. This is
guaranteed to please.
FINNAN Henry Miller selected for his gastronomic
HADDIE contribution the plebeian finnan haddle;
but, as he says. Its transformation makes it nothing short
of divine, especially when accompanied by fried green
peppers. The actor-manager w^ho prepares them does
them in a chafer with no fuss at all. " For finnan
haddle," he says, " have the fish thoroughly washed,
and after standing in cold water about an hour put in
boiling v/ater for five minutes, then wipe dry. Rub
butter and lemon juice well Into the fiber of the fish,
then broil over a clear fire for fifteen minutes; or if
the clear fire is not handy, put in the blazer in some
99
792352A
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees
butter, with the cover on tight. Serve either with
hot butter sauce or tartare sauce — although I incline
to the former. ✪ Finnan Haddie
Page 41 · 2 recipe records on this page
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will show you how to do a " Mullig^an " such as w^as
never seen on the Emerald Isle, and the student just
home from Hefdelberg will tell you that no German
restaurant ever serves sauerkraut with such delicious
brown gravy as he learned to make in Germany — not
even Tony Faust of St. Louis, who certainly has this
continent beaten on the food of the Fatherland. The
American Art Student home on his vacation will deftly
prepare a Chateaubriand by grilling a thick fillet be-
tween two slices of rump steak, which contribute their
juices, but are thrown aside while the fillet is being
delicately browned over the hot coals before popping
on the hot platter.
Among some of these good things collected from
bachelors — and some benedicts, too — are a few so
choice that they must be mentioned as a part of the
stock of the Bachelor's Cupboard. " Tell me what a
man eats and FU tell you what he is " is generally a
pretty good rule to follow, but have j^ou ever tried to
tell what a man eats by what he is? That is the more
difficult psychological problem to solve.
There's David Belasco, for instance. One would
imagine that the writer of " Zaza " and " DuBarry "
and all the rest would be something of an epicure, and
want his dishes highly seasoned. As he affirms, there's
many a dish with excellent constituents that fails for
lack of skill in combining them, just as many a good
play is ruined in the building, though the raw material
may be excellent. An artistic proportion should be
98
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees
maintained between Ingredients, he says, just as be-
tween the characters of a play. His Salmi of Goose Is
his favorite entree, and this is how he has It prepared :
SALMI Cut the remains of a roast goose In small
OF oblong pieces, removing the skin and gris-
GOOSE ^jg^ Take the bones and scraps and boil
them down until the water is reduced to a cup of
strong stock. Add to this a carrot, a young turnip, a
tomato, an apple, and a stalk of celery, all cut in dice
and previously parboiled together for ten minutes.
Simmer in the gravy until they will go through a vege-
table press, then put the meat In the stock and cook un-
til tender. Thicken the stock with browned flour, put
the goose on some slices of toast, and pour the gravy
over and surround with the vegetable puree. This is
guaranteed to please.
FINNAN Henry Miller selected for his gastronomic
HADDIE contribution the plebeian finnan haddle;
but, as he says. Its transformation makes it nothing short
of divine, especially when accompanied by fried green
peppers. The actor-manager w^ho prepares them does
them in a chafer with no fuss at all. " For finnan
haddle," he says, " have the fish thoroughly washed,
and after standing in cold water about an hour put in
boiling v/ater for five minutes, then wipe dry. Rub
butter and lemon juice well Into the fiber of the fish,
then broil over a clear fire for fifteen minutes; or if
the clear fire is not handy, put in the blazer in some
99
792352A
A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD
Bachelor Bonnes Bouchees
butter, with the cover on tight. Serve either with
hot butter sauce or tartare sauce — although I incline
to the former.