FoodNet

A bachelors cupboard

1906

Page 32 · 3 recipe records on this page

Presented as published in 1906. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Deviling is a particular form of cookery that was doubtless devised by some inventive bachelor; at all events, " devils " are beloved by epi- cures the world over. What New Yorker does not remember with joy the famous " devils " procurable only in their glory at "Jack's"? There is a subtlety in Jack's concoctions that makes the chefs at Sherry's, Delmon- ico's. Rector's, and Martin's throw up their hands in the face of his in- comparable mixture. The " devils " of more than one London club, but particularly the Junior Carlton and the Army and Navy, are famed the world over, while even the Somerset Club in Boston by no means lags behind in the preparation of deviled kidneys. 77 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Devils and Grills The distinction between deviling and grilling? Well, grills need not be deviled, but devils MUST be grilled. The proper dressing of a good devil is one of its chief requisites. It must be pungently spiced, hot to the taste, cooked in a sizzling fry-pan, and served smoking hot. Kidneys and chops are especially well adapted to deviling, but anything in the tinned meat line, and sausages also, are improved by the dressing, while rare slices of roast beef and mutton and all sorts of game may be made tempting as well. JACK'S is jealously guarded, but Walter Mac- RECIPE Queen of the famous " Broiler Club " gives one that is so like It as to be its twin brother. (Are sauces masculine? This one should be, at any rate.) Stir in the chafing dish enough olive oil to flood the bottom, a spoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful of paprika, a little salt and some black pepper. When thoroughly blended, pop in the kidneys or whatever is to be deviled, and if an added zest is required, throw in a few olives and heat thoroughly. A bit of toast or a crusty end off a French loaf and a glass of musty ale add just the proper touch to this Satanic morsel. INDIAN Admiral Ross of the English navy handed DEVIL down to posterity a recipe for " Indian MIXTURE £)g^ji Mixture " that is not to be ignored. This Is it: Four tablespoonfuls of cold gravy, one of chutney paste, one of ketchup, one of vinegar, two teaspoon- 78 A BACHELOR'S CUPBOARD Devils and Grills fuls of made mustard, two of salt and two of butter. Mix these all thoroughly In a soup plate, then heat in the chafer. DEVILED is a favorite dish in the menage of a New DUCK York bachelor, who always makes it the piece de resistance of his meal. The skin having been removed from a cold roast duck and the bird cut in pieces of a convenient size, he proceeds as follows: The livers are mashed with a spoonful of dry mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a dash of cayenne, to a smooth paste in the blazer, in which two tablespoonfuls of butter have been melt- ing. The same amount of water is added, and finally, a gill of good old Madeira. When this Is smoking hot, the pieces of duck are added and left to simmer until smoking hot, too. "A says an English bachelor whose suppers at Deviled Lobster