A bachelors cupboard

wiped, dip in eggs and bread crumbs, and after sauteing in hot butter, dish up on thin strips of toast. TURTLE Should a man be so fortunate as to have STEAK sent up from Maryland with his birds a small terrapin, then shall he call himself blessed and ask in three or four of his intimes for a quiet game. No matter what the losses, this turtle steak will amply repay the loser and make the smile of the winner expand like Sunny Jim's. After melting two spoonfuls of butter in his blazer, the host, who meanwhile has the champagne cooling and the plates heating, will stir into the chafing dish a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, a gill of port, a dash of cayenne — why do they alw^ays say ''dash"? — and some salt. In this simmer the steak until tender, and, as a crowning touch, stir in the juice of half a lime. Piping hot should be the plates, the inevitable toast, and the steak. With the champagne of the right coolness and the steak of the prescribed hotness, even Sam Bernard wouldn't know, I'll wager, just when one should cry "Sufficiency!" CANNED Who w^ould ever dream that the plebeian SALMON canned salmon could be transformed into a morsel of such surpassing richness that it was immortalized by no less a person than Thackeray himself? Yes, canned or "tinned" salmon was in style as long ago as that, my friends. And this is how the jovial litterateur did it for himself and his gifted friends: Snacks of Sea Food A gill of olive oil should be popped Into the blazer with a tablespoon of chopped onion, a minced clove of garlic, two cloves, six peppercorns, and, when browned, a can of canned salmon in Its liquid. Now add salt, bay leaf, a few slices of lemon, a pinch of curry powder, a pint of tomato pulp, a gill of Nierstelner, and water enough to cover the fish. Simmer twenty minutes, then pour into a deep dish that has been lined with toast, and call it '' Bouillabaisse" CRABS Melt in the hot water pan a large spoonful A LA of butter and cook In it for five minutes a CREOLE small onion and a small sweet Spanish pepper, minced fine. Stir while frying and add half a pint of strained tomato juice, a gill of chicken broth or canned chicken bouillon, some celery salt, and four soft shelled crabs nicely cleaned and cut in half. Simmer seven minutes — no longer — and serve on delicately browned toast. BOSTON Did they originate at the Somerset Club CLAMS or the Puritan? It's immaterial which, but this Is how they're done: Cut in dice three or four slices of fat salt pork and fry crisp in the chafer. Add some soft clams, freed from the tough part, salt and pepper to taste, and saute them in the pork fat, serving on slices of hot Boston brown bread. FINNAN as served at the Hotel Essex In Boston owes HADDIE its reputation to its creator, Rudolf Ziitter. The skin is removed from the finnan haddie and the Snacks of Sea Food