A year's cookery

and pass the jelly carefully through it three or four times. The crust that will have formed at the top must on no account be disturbed, and the jelly must be poured gently upon it, a little at a time. It will act as a sort of filter, and help to make the jelly clear. When there is not a jelly-bag and stand at hand, a very effectual though simple substitute may be made out of a kitchen stool and a clean napkin (see April 9tli). When the liquid is bright and clear add a wineglassful of sherry and a table-spoonful of brandy, pour it into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place. A jelly made with these proportions can be varied in all sorts of ways. Various liqueurs can be used for flavouring instead of sherry or brandy, fruit juices can be added instead of water, and the jelly of course is named after the special flavourer. Thus, jelly flavoured with orange-rind and juice is orange jelly, and with maraschino is maraschino jelly. Fruit and other additions are very often put into clear jelly, and they improve the appearance as well as the taste of the preparation. The fruits most suitable for the purpose are purple and white grapes, strawberries, cherries, raspberries, red and white currants, peaches, and apricots for summer-time ; apples, pears, oranges, and preserved fruits, such as pine-apples, apricots, greengages, &c., for winter. Soft fruits, such as grapes, red currants, strawberries, and raspberries, may be put into the jelly as they are. Hard fruits should be cooked gently in syrup before being laid in the jelly, and large fruits should be cut into even-sized pieces. In preparing dishes of this kind a little jelly should be first poured into the mould to the depth of a quarter of an inch. When this is set, a layer of fruit may be arranged upon it, and a spoonful or two of jelly should be poured in to keep the fruit in its place. When this also is set, jelly should be poured in again to cover the fruit to the thickness of a quarter of an inch ; this too being allowed to set before a further addition is made. After this the mould can be filled up to within three-quarters of an inch of the top, with alternate layers of fruit, with jelly enough to keep it in its place, and jelly to cover it to the depth of a quarter of an inch, each layer being allowed to set firmly before another one is put in. When putting in the fruit, care should be taken to contrast the colours prettily. It is astonishing what effective and delicious jellies can be made in this way for a very trifling cost. When Savoury or Aspic Jelly is to be made, such as is used to garnish salad or to make calfs-head mould or similar dishes, the gelatine is soaked, dissolved, and clarified as before, but savoury instead of sweet flavours are boiled with the liquid. If a pint of jelly is required, the pan may be rubbed across twice with a clove of garlic, and then the liquid may be poured in, and with it a small piece of clean leek, a piece of turnip, a piece of carrot, an inch or two of celery, a shallot, half a blade of mace, a very small sprig of tarragon and chervil, two cloves, twelve peppercorns, and a little salt. The juice of a lemon, or a table-spoonful of vinegar, should also be added ; the first is to be preferred. Jelly of this kind maybe put into a round A YEAR'S COOKERY.