Housekeeper and Cook 71
high-handedness is the only weapon of any avail. As an
instance in pointy one of the authors ordered potted sheep’s
head several times, and in spite of minute instructions the
result was failure. At last the head was ordered for inspec-
tion, and it was skinned.' The reply to an indignant query as
to why strict orders had been disobeyed, was that sheep’s
heads were always skinned — it was dusioor, i.e. custom ;
together with the remark that skinning or not skinning had
nothing to do with the non-setting of the jelly, which every
one knew came from bones and not skin. The offender was
told to boil an unskinned head for twelve hours. He came
next day with a new light on his face. “Mem Sahib,” he
said, “do they by any chance make gelatine of skins, foj', as the
Lord sees me, I can hardly cut that jelly with a knife !” Here was
a case of sheer ignorance of facts well known to an English
child ; and it must never be forgotten that this is not the
exception, but the rule. An Indian cook does not under-
stand why eggs will not rise if whipped slowly, or why syrup
will never crystallise unless stirred. He often stands con-
founded before his own failures, unable to tell where he has
gone wrong, or how; and if his mistress is a practical cook,
he will give a smile of wonder and relief when she points out
what he must have done to have caused that specific result.
The consequent testimony, “ Leshukk — dp such furmdta hai —
aisa hua” (“Without doubt, your honour speaks truth — it
was so ”), will go further to raise a mistress in his estimation
than any amount of theoretical knowledge she may display.
It must not be forgotten either that the best cooks are liable
to failures. The fire may be too slack, and yet the delay of
increasing it may be ?vorse than making the best of what you
have. Attention may be distracted for half a second, and lo !
the custard curdles, the caramel burns. In cooking, as in
other things, the charity born of sympathy covers a multitude
of sins.
In regard to the actual duties of a cook in India, they are
confined entirely to cooking. He has nothing whatever to
do with the morning tea, boiling the kettle, making the
toast, &c. That is the khitmutgdr s work, and even when
poached eggs are taken it is best not to make the cook
responsible, for the early morning is his marketing time.
In the same way he is in no way responsible for the pro])er
72 The Complete Indian
serving of breakfast, only with the dressing and dishing up
of the hot dishes, whatever they may he. Tea, coffee, eggs,
milk, toast, butter, &c., are in charge of the khilmntgar ; and
so is the afternoon tea. Beyond this, everything which comes
to table is in the cook’s care, and he must arrange with the
table servants how the various dishes and sauces are to be
served.
A considerate mistress will always look a day or two ahead
in her orderings, but the cook should be encouraged to act on
his own responsibility in minor details, and be praised when
he has contrived some fresh pudding or side-dish. This is
an immense relief, especially in the hot weather, Avhen one
racks one’s brains in vain to think of something new, and
everything that comes to mind seems a Dead Sea apple of
dust and ashes.
Page 48
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Housekeeper and Cook 71
high-handedness is the only weapon of any avail. As an
instance in pointy one of the authors ordered potted sheep’s
head several times, and in spite of minute instructions the
result was failure. At last the head was ordered for inspec-
tion, and it was skinned.' The reply to an indignant query as
to why strict orders had been disobeyed, was that sheep’s
heads were always skinned — it was dusioor, i.e. custom ;
together with the remark that skinning or not skinning had
nothing to do with the non-setting of the jelly, which every
one knew came from bones and not skin. The offender was
told to boil an unskinned head for twelve hours. He came
next day with a new light on his face. “Mem Sahib,” he
said, “do they by any chance make gelatine of skins, foj', as the
Lord sees me, I can hardly cut that jelly with a knife !” Here was
a case of sheer ignorance of facts well known to an English
child ; and it must never be forgotten that this is not the
exception, but the rule. An Indian cook does not under-
stand why eggs will not rise if whipped slowly, or why syrup
will never crystallise unless stirred. He often stands con-
founded before his own failures, unable to tell where he has
gone wrong, or how; and if his mistress is a practical cook,
he will give a smile of wonder and relief when she points out
what he must have done to have caused that specific result.
The consequent testimony, “ Leshukk — dp such furmdta hai —
aisa hua” (“Without doubt, your honour speaks truth — it
was so ”), will go further to raise a mistress in his estimation
than any amount of theoretical knowledge she may display.
It must not be forgotten either that the best cooks are liable
to failures. The fire may be too slack, and yet the delay of
increasing it may be ?vorse than making the best of what you
have. Attention may be distracted for half a second, and lo !
the custard curdles, the caramel burns. In cooking, as in
other things, the charity born of sympathy covers a multitude
of sins.
In regard to the actual duties of a cook in India, they are
confined entirely to cooking. He has nothing whatever to
do with the morning tea, boiling the kettle, making the
toast, &c. That is the khitmutgdr s work, and even when
poached eggs are taken it is best not to make the cook
responsible, for the early morning is his marketing time.
In the same way he is in no way responsible for the pro])er
72 The Complete Indian
serving of breakfast, only with the dressing and dishing up
of the hot dishes, whatever they may he. Tea, coffee, eggs,
milk, toast, butter, &c., are in charge of the khilmntgar ; and
so is the afternoon tea. Beyond this, everything which comes
to table is in the cook’s care, and he must arrange with the
table servants how the various dishes and sauces are to be
served.
A considerate mistress will always look a day or two ahead
in her orderings, but the cook should be encouraged to act on
his own responsibility in minor details, and be praised when
he has contrived some fresh pudding or side-dish. This is
an immense relief, especially in the hot weather, Avhen one
racks one’s brains in vain to think of something new, and
everything that comes to mind seems a Dead Sea apple of
dust and ashes.