Landour lies on the right, Mussoorie on a somewhat lower hill on the left. The latter is a larger and gayer place ; the former the most healthy, and is the military sanatorium. Mussoorie is the cheapest hill station ; hotels very good, especially “ The Charleville.” Society rather mixed. House rent fairly cheap, and provisions also ; but the distances from the bazaar are great, afid many people allow their cook a pony. The scenery is not very pretty, with the exception of the Doon, which is unique. A large number of retired officers, resident 44 The Indian Housekeeper and Cook in the Doon during the winter, come up for the summer to Mussoorie. Educational advantages good. Dhurmsala and Dalhousie are both difficult of access, being more than fifty miles from the railway. This makes the carriage of goods troublesome, though there is a good cart-road. Dalhousie is the prettiest and healthiest of all hill stations ; water excel- lent : gravel and granite soil, which dries quickly ; good, but not very gay society ; style of living and prices in both places fairly cheap and good. The houses in Dalhousie are the best, being built of good stone. Dhurmsala is nearer the perpetual snow-line than any other hill station. Ihe pleasantest way of reaching Dalhousie is by three daily marches, as there are excellent rest-houses, scenery beautiful, climate fairly cool. Murree is by far the most convenient hill station north of Lahore, and is, in addition, the usual starting-point for Kashmir. Excellent shops, where all things necessary for the trip can be hired or purchased. With the exception of Ooty, it is perhaps the most English place in India. The only drawback to its healthiness is its water- supply, and the large number of troops with their baza<y followers camped out on the surrounding hills. It is six hours by tonga from Rawulpindi, and it is necessary to make arrangements to be met at the thirty-eighth milestone by dandies or ponies, as the tonga does not go beyond that point House rent and provisions much the same as at other lull stations; good society; you can be as gay or as quiet as you like. There are several small stations scattered beyond Murree, such as the Gullies and Thandiani, all of them very healthy and very quiet. , , , i,. i Since writing the above the water-supply has been altered, and is now good. CHAPTER V hints on breakfasts, dinners, luncheons, etc. Breakfasts in India are for the most part horrible meals, being hybrids between the English and the pencil fashions. Then the ordinary Indian cook has not an idea for breakfast beyond .chops, steaks, fried fish, and quail ; a 7nenu rendered still less inviting by the poor quality of both fish and meat. Tea made and poured out by a khitnmtgdr at a side table, toast and butter coming in when the meal is half-finished, and the laying of the table for lunch while the breakfast- eaters are still seated, combine to make new-comers open their eyes at Indian barbarities. Of course, if bieakfast be deferred till eleven or twelve o’clock, it is better to lean towards the French dejeuner cl Ici fourchelle, since under these circumstances lunch would be a crime ; but when, as is often the case, the breakfast hour is English, there is no real reason why English fashions should not be adheied to in every way.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Landour lies on the right, Mussoorie on a somewhat lower hill on the left. The latter is a larger and gayer place ; the former the most healthy, and is the military sanatorium. Mussoorie is the cheapest hill station ; hotels very good, especially “ The Charleville.” Society rather mixed. House rent fairly cheap, and provisions also ; but the distances from the bazaar are great, afid many people allow their cook a pony. The scenery is not very pretty, with the exception of the Doon, which is unique. A large number of retired officers, resident 44 The Indian Housekeeper and Cook in the Doon during the winter, come up for the summer to Mussoorie. Educational advantages good. Dhurmsala and Dalhousie are both difficult of access, being more than fifty miles from the railway. This makes the carriage of goods troublesome, though there is a good cart-road. Dalhousie is the prettiest and healthiest of all hill stations ; water excellent : gravel and granite soil, which dries quickly ; good, but not very gay society ; style of living and prices in both places fairly cheap and good. The houses in Dalhousie are the best, being built of good stone. Dhurmsala is nearer the perpetual snow-line than any other hill station. Ihe pleasantest way of reaching Dalhousie is by three daily marches, as there are excellent rest-houses, scenery beautiful, climate fairly cool. Murree is by far the most convenient hill station north of Lahore, and is, in addition, the usual starting-point for Kashmir. Excellent shops, where all things necessary for the trip can be hired or purchased. With the exception of Ooty, it is perhaps the most English place in India. The only drawback to its healthiness is its watersupply, and the large number of troops with their baza<y followers camped out on the surrounding hills. It is six hours by tonga from Rawulpindi, and it is necessary to make arrangements to be met at the thirty-eighth milestone by dandies or ponies, as the tonga does not go beyond that point House rent and provisions much the same as at other lull stations; good society; you can be as gay or as quiet as you like. There are several small stations scattered beyond Murree, such as the Gullies and Thandiani, all of them very healthy and very quiet. , , , i,. i Since writing the above the water-supply has been altered, and is now good. CHAPTER V hints on breakfasts, dinners, luncheons, etc. Breakfasts in India are for the most part horrible meals, being hybrids between the English and the French fashions. Then the ordinary Indian cook has not an idea for breakfast beyond .chops, steaks, fried fish, and quail ; a menu rendered still less inviting by the poor quality of both fish and meat. Tea made and poured out by a khitnmtgdr at a side table, toast and butter coming in when the meal is half-finished, and the laying of the table for lunch while the breakfasteaters are still seated, combine to make new-comers open their eyes at Indian barbarities. Of course, if bieakfast be deferred till eleven or twelve o’clock, it is better to lean towards the French déjeuner à la fourchette, since under these circumstances lunch would be a crime ; but when, as is often the case, the breakfast hour is English, there is no real reason why English fashions should not be adhered to in every way.

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