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Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book

1898

Page 71 · 1 recipe record on this page

Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Mussels cultivated for bait, are very large, often nine inches in length, and are thus easily avoidable. English sea Mussels, when fit for eating, at three years old, are not more than two inches long. The shells should be thoroughly scraped and scrubbed, changing the water several times to get rid of all sand and grit. The Mussels must be opened with an oyster knife, for it spoils them to put them in a warm place in order to make them open. The so-called beards of Mussels are the horny threads, looking like seaweed, by which the shell is attached to the rock ; these are not edible, and must be carefully removed. Mussel Soup may be made like Oyster Soup, and Mussel Sauce like Oyster Sauce ; indeed, it is said that much of the sauce served at restaurants has more to do with Mussels than it has with Oysters. Lobsters, Crabs, Prawns, Shrimps, and Crayfish all belong to the same family of Shell-fish. Lobsters. — English Lobsters are not in season during the months of January, February, and March, but Lobsters can always be had, as enormous quantities are imported from Norway. These Lobsters travel alive, packed in wet seaweed, and arrive in perfect condition. The largest English Lobsters weigh from eight to twelve pounds, but the great American Lobsters exported to England in tins often weigh as much as twenty-five pounds. Excellent Lobsters are caught off the north coast of Ireland, and these, by arrangement with a friendly fisherman, can be sent freshly-boiled by Parcel Post. It is a great pity that there is not a close time for Lobsters during May and June, for during these months the female Lobster is full of eggs or “coral.” This coral is only used for decoration of dishes, and might well be dispensed with in view of the fact that each bead of coral represents a future Lobster. But such is the demand for coral that a female Lobster is more valuable than a male, although the flesh of the male is better in flavour. The eggs of the Lobster, like those of all this family of Shell-fish, are not fully developed when hatched ; they adhere for a time to the fine hairs with which the “ swimmerets ” or paddles of the mother are fringed. In this state the Lobster is said by fishermen to be “berried,” and commands a good price. 1 1 2 SHELL-FISH Lobster Sauce. — In making this simple sauce two things only are necessary — that is, to use plenty of Lobster, carefully made melted butter, and nothing else. But there are several faults, too often seen in Lobster Sauce, which must be avoided. One is chopping the Lobster too small, or, worse still, pounding it. Another is using the contents of the head of the Lobster. A still more common fault is the addition of anchovy sauce, flour, and milk or cream. Lobster Sauce should taste of nothing but the Lobster, softened and moistened by the melted butter, and it is quite rich enough without milk or cream. It should not be a half solid mass, nor a thin wretched liquid with scanty morsels of Lobster floating in it, but a creamy bed in which the pieces of Lobster are plentiful and distinct. To secure this result, chop the meat of the tail and claws of a good-sized boiled Lobster into pieces, but not too small. Half an hour before dinner make half a pint of melted butter ; put the Lobster into the saucepan with the melted butter, add a pinch or two of coral, a dust of cayenne, and half a saltspoonful of saltLobster Sauce.