French people eat many more small birds than we do. The Thrashes or Grives which have fed in vineyards are thought a great delicacy in France, and even the Robin Redbreast does not escape. Quantities of Robins are sent to Paris from Lor- raine and Alsace, particularly from the neighbourhood of Metz. The Robin is said to have a remarkably delicate bitter flavour, and (whilst Thrushes are made into pates) “ cet aimable oiseau se mange a la broche et en salmi.” French people excuse themselves for eating Larks, Thrushes, and Robins by saying “ S’il fallait avoir compassion de tout le monde on ne mangerait personne,” — a specious excuse indeed. But this excuse is as nothing compared to that made by the same writer for the production of pate de foie gras, a prepa- ration which I mention only with wonder that any kind- hearted person can encourage the supply by buying it, or by eating it when bought by others. “ To obtain these Goose “ livers of the size required it is necessary to sacrifice the “ person of the animal. Crammed with food, deprived of “ drink, and fixed near a great fire, before which he is nailed “ by his feet upon a plank, this Goose passes, it must be owned, “ an uncomfortable life. The torment would indeed be alto- “ gether intolerable if the idea of the lot which awaits him did “ not serve as a consolation. But this perspective makes “ him endure his sufferings with courage ; and when he “ reflects that his liver, bigger than himself, larded with truffles, and clothed in a scientific pate, will diffuse all over “ Europe the glory of his name, he resigns himself to his “ destiny, and suffers not a tear to flow.” * Birds and beasts must no doubt be killed for human food, but it should be done with as little suffering as possible. It is shocking that additional suffering should be inflicted to produce, not a necessary food, but an unnecessary dainty. * “ Alraanach ties Gourmands — Hayward’s Essays.” Vol. ii, p. 424. TO PREPARE POULTRY AND GAME FOR COOKING. In towns birds are always sent in ready for cooking, but it is well for all cooks and necessary for those living in the country to know how to prepare them. Poultry should always be plucked whilst still warm, as the feathers come off more easily. It is often necessary to scald the pinions in order to draw out the stumps of feathers. Singe off all hairs on the body of the bird with a wax taper, such as is used for lighting gas. Then cut off the head, and open the skin at the back of the neck. Loosen the skin all round, and you will see the soft tube of the gullet and the stiff tube of the windpipe. Follow the gullet in with your finger and loosen the crop which is attached to it. Then take hold of the gullet with a cloth so as to hold it firmly, and gently pull out the whole of the crop or stomach, with its contents. Now draw out the windpipe, cut off the neck close to the body, leaving a flap of skin three inches long. This will fold over the back and close the opening of the neck. Turn the bird on its back and with the point of a sharp knife cut a small slit across under the tail. Take great care in doing this not to scratch or cut the intestines. Insert your finger, and loosen the liver and the gizzard. The gizzard is the second stomach, or muscular stomach, of a fowl.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

French people eat many more small birds than we do. The Thrashes or Grives which have fed in vineyards are thought a great delicacy in France, and even the Robin Redbreast does not escape. Quantities of Robins are sent to Paris from Lorraine and Alsace, particularly from the neighbourhood of Metz. The Robin is said to have a remarkably delicate bitter flavour, and (whilst Thrushes are made into pates) “ cet aimable oiseau se mange a la broche et en salmi.” French people excuse themselves for eating Larks, Thrushes, and Robins by saying “ S’il fallait avoir compassion de tout le monde on ne mangerait personne,” — a specious excuse indeed. But this excuse is as nothing compared to that made by the same writer for the production of pate de foie gras, a preparation which I mention only with wonder that any kindhearted person can encourage the supply by buying it, or by eating it when bought by others. “ To obtain these Goose “ livers of the size required it is necessary to sacrifice the “ person of the animal. Crammed with food, deprived of “ drink, and fixed near a great fire, before which he is nailed “ by his feet upon a plank, this Goose passes, it must be owned, “ an uncomfortable life. The torment would indeed be alto- “ gether intolerable if the idea of the lot which awaits him did “ not serve as a consolation. But this perspective makes “ him endure his sufferings with courage ; and when he “ reflects that his liver, bigger than himself, larded with truffles, and clothed in a scientific pate, will diffuse all over “ Europe the glory of his name, he resigns himself to his “ destiny, and suffers not a tear to flow.” * Birds and beasts must no doubt be killed for human food, but it should be done with as little suffering as possible. It is shocking that additional suffering should be inflicted to produce, not a necessary food, but an unnecessary dainty. * “ Alraanach ties Gourmands — Hayward’s Essays.” Vol. ii, p. 424. TO PREPARE POULTRY AND GAME FOR COOKING. In towns birds are always sent in ready for cooking, but it is well for all cooks and necessary for those living in the country to know how to prepare them. Poultry should always be plucked whilst still warm, as the feathers come off more easily. It is often necessary to scald the pinions in order to draw out the stumps of feathers. Singe off all hairs on the body of the bird with a wax taper, such as is used for lighting gas. Then cut off the head, and open the skin at the back of the neck. Loosen the skin all round, and you will see the soft tube of the gullet and the stiff tube of the windpipe. Follow the gullet in with your finger and loosen the crop which is attached to it. Then take hold of the gullet with a cloth so as to hold it firmly, and gently pull out the whole of the crop or stomach, with its contents. Now draw out the windpipe, cut off the neck close to the body, leaving a flap of skin three inches long. This will fold over the back and close the opening of the neck. Turn the bird on its back and with the point of a sharp knife cut a small slit across under the tail. Take great care in doing this not to scratch or cut the intestines. Insert your finger, and loosen the liver and the gizzard. The gizzard is the second stomach, or muscular stomach, of a fowl.

Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book