FoodNetArchive

Mrs. Roundell's Practical cookery book

1898

Page 110

Presented as published in 1898. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Mutton. — The days in which good four-year-old Mutton could easily be had are gone, it is to be feared for ever, and six-year-old Mutton is now looked on as a delicacy known only to the pre-historic world. Sheep are now frequently killed before they are two years old, sometimes even at sixteen months old ; only ewes are allowed to live long enough to have three or four lambs, and their Mutton is poor in quality. The best Mutton is Wether Mutton at three years old. The age of a sheep can be told by the colour of the breast-bones ; if the sheep is under a year old these bones will be red, if older they are pink. The bones lose colour as the sheep ages ; in the days of four-year-old Mutton the breast-bones were as white as gristle. In colour the lean part of Mutton should be brownish red, and the fat as firm and as white as wax ; the meat should be close-grained, and the bones small. Mutton with pale coloured meat and yellowish fat should never be bought, as it is not fit for food. In choosing Mutton plump and short joints should be selected. Wether Mutton can be distinguished by the small lump of fat at the upper end of the leg. Large Mutton, besides being coarse, is wasteful, owing to the amount of bone and fat which it contains. Loins and necks of Mutton are often dreadfully fat ; half an inch deep of fat on tbe outside is as much as can be required ; if there is more tbe butcher should be told to trim it off. There is often a useless amount 1 66 MEAT of suet left inside a loin of Mutton ; this need only be kept when the kidney has been ordered. A leg of Mutton is by far the most profitable of the joints, but it is a mistake to buy one weighing over nine pounds, as the heavier weight only means coarse, tough meat. A shoulder is liked by some persons ; others agree with the bride who thought that shoulders of Mutton were used for making glue. Breast of Mutton is too fat to be profitable. If Mutton is fresh there will be a reddish look about the bones where they have been sawn off. Opinions differ as to the length of time for which Mutton should be hung, and much depends on the state of the weather, and on the size and ventilation of the larder. About a week is generally the best time, now that sheep are killed so much younger than they used to be. Butchers will generally hang meat until customers require it, but if sheep are killed at the home farm the mistress of the house must use her discretion. Bor instance, she must consider how long to hang saddles and legs of mutton so as to ensure their being tender, and she must see that the scrag-ends of the necks are cut off when quite fresh, so as to be profitable in the stock-pot. Sheep’s feet, heads, and tongues are always useful. Sheep’s kidneys are generally liked, but if there are any spots upon them they must be rejected. The usual weights of joints of English Mutton are : Leg, five to nine pounds ; Saddle, eleven to twelve pounds ; Loin (half the saddle), six pounds ; Shoulder, five to seven pounds ; Breast, three pounds ; Best end of Neck, four pounds ; Scrag-end, three pounds. Pre Sale Mutton — that is, mutton from sheep fed on salt marshes by the sea — is considered to have a specially fine flavour, and is light in weight.