FoodNet

366 menus and 1200 recipes of the Baron Brisse in French and English

1884

Page 5

Presented as published in 1884. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
We receive millions of artichokes and early vegetables from the south, and we thank it heartily for our anticipated enjoyments, but we must not forget that the finest fruit and vegetables come from “ Île de France.” Welcome also to the fresh butter which, thanks, to the young grass, 1S now in perfection. PROVISION CALENDAR. xiil ——— Provisions in season during May. Vegetables are more abundant ; besides which we have melons, French beans, cauliflowers, and cucumbers, early peas, broad beans, lettuce, and young turnips, forced straw- berries, and cherries. JUNE. Here we are at the last month of spring, and it is specially celebrated for its beautiful red fruits and flowers. No one can dine better than the bees do this month. Let us follow their good example and abandon to a certain extent our carnivorous tastes, and enjoy all the savoury and abundant productions which are in season. We now have fine young fowls to charm us, and their number is further augmented by invaluable turkey poults and gallant young cocks, which we must no more confound with the interesting capon, than we would compare a fine opera singer with one of the choir at the Sistine ChapelL Provisions in season during June. Under glass : egg-plants, cucumbers, and tomatoes. We can no longer count on asparagus, but out of doors there are French beans, spinach, Morella cherries, raspberries, cherries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries. Jury During this month the poultry-yardis in its full glory. There are fattened turkey poults, pullets, and capons. We must not forget veal, which is at its prime. Our markets are filled with river and sea fish; but we must begin to examine our fish critically from head to tail. The hay having been cut, we are enabled to catch crayfsh, the little red fish which goes back- wards, and which naturalists say is not a fish, is not red, and does not go backwards. Now is the time to make use of the well-flavoured young rabbits which are in season, and with these resources our dinners can be charmingly varied, whatever any one may say to the contrary. An experienced Xiv PROVISION CALENDAR, dinner-eater is far too clever to grumble at imaginary deprivations during the month of July. Provisions in season during July. AI vegetables are in season, and potatoes in abundance. Figs, apricots, peaches, early pears, and apples are now ripe. AUGUST. August was the Emperor Augustus’ favourite month, and no one can have been a better judge of a good dinner than he was. This emperor had the whole world at his feet, and he could well set heat and cold at defiance. Rome was at this time not only the capital of the world, but also of gastronomy. Everything worth having was broughtto Rome, without Augustus having to exclaim, as did Louis XIV. “I had almost to wait.” Large cities become deserted in August on account of the great heat, and people either go to the country, to the sea-side, or to drink the waters. They go about the country and fields, and do not think much abouteating. How- ever, at the end of the month shooting begins, and gourmands are provided with young quail, leverets, and young wild boar. Other game is not worth much just yet, Provisions in season during August. The same as in July. Melons, figs, peaches, plums, pears, green almonds, green walnuts, and all kinds of vegetables. SEPTEMBER. Partridge-shooting commences, and at the same time the vintages in the wine districts Now is the season when you begin to eat with thought. All butcher’s meat is good. Game will improve, but we get much which is very good. Thrushes have pecked sufficiently at the grapes to make them worth eating. Sea fish is abundant, and all fruits are in per- fection, Truffles and oysters make their appearance very timidly, It is better not to be too familiar with them just yet, so as to enable your palate to get in order, and also to allow