being eggs eaten with bread-and-butter. I would first
remind them that the eggs and the butter in the shape
of an omelette would be just the same, as far as ex-
pense goes ; but I would protest against the custom
of the day of young men eating, comparatively speak-
ing, no breakfast, but taking a heavy meat meal in the
middle of the day, about one or two o’clock, and then
going back to work. A look into the City dining-
rooms in the middle of the day, shows to how great
an extent this practice is carried, and also suggests
how very unintellectual the greater part of City work
must be. Really to work with the brains immediately
after an early dinner is, if not impossible, at any rate
injurious. Probably the seeds of chronic dyspepsia
are sown by this unwise habit.
What men should do is to eat a good hearty break-
fast ; take a light lunch, say a few biscuits, or at the
outside a piece of bread-and-cheese and a glass of ale,
if this latter has not the effect of incapacitating them
for work ; and then to make a good dinner at six or
seven o’clock, or later, as the case may be.
There is one thing in connection with breakfast
that should not be omitted to be mentioned, and that is
coffee. How it is that, as a rule, good coffee can no
more be obtained in England than tea in France, is
difficult to say. One great secret, however, of French
coffee is that it is always not only fresh ground, but
ousted. I would therefore briefly advise you,
in reference to coffee, first to buy it in the nibs, and grind
it yourself ; secondly, never to grind it till just before
you want it ; thirdly, before grinding it heat the coffee
in the oven for a few minutes — this latter having the
effect of bringing out the flavour ; lastly, do not grudge
the coffee.
CHAPTER VII.
HOW TO GIVE A NICE LITTLE DINNER.
However strange may appear the statement, yet we
have no hesitation in saying that one of the greatest
steps ever made in economy in giving dinner-parties
was the introduction into this country of the dinner
la Russe. It will be our endeavour in the present
article both to prove and illustrate this point by con-
trasting a small dinner-party of thirty or forty years
ago with a modern one. As we have already remarked,
our observations are intended to apply to those whose
status in society may be best described as possessing
neither poverty nor riches. We mil suppose the number
of persons at dinner to be about ten or a dozen.
My mind now goes back to some people I knew
very well in my younger days, and who will make
admirable representatives of a very large portion of
the backbone of English society ; exceedingly kind,
generous, and hospitable, but whose ideas of cooking
contained a strong element of contempt for what they
called — recollect, I am speaking of thirty years ago —
French messes.
The time is soon after Christmas, and the party a
family one. The boys of the party, in their large
white collars outside their jackets, look flushed and
happy, and may be seen furtively looking from time to
time at a bright yellow coin, which they keep in their
waistcoat pockets — the coin in question being a recent
“ tip ” in the shape of a Christmas-box from the stout
and hospitable host.
62
HOW TO GIVE A DINNER.
63
Page 31
Presented as published in 1906. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
being eggs eaten with bread-and-butter. I would first remind them that the eggs and the butter in the shape of an omelette would be just the same, as far as expense goes ; but I would protest against the custom of the day of young men eating, comparatively speaking, no breakfast, but taking a heavy meat meal in the middle of the day, about one or two o’clock, and then going back to work. A look into the City diningrooms in the middle of the day, shows to how great an extent this practice is carried, and also suggests how very unintellectual the greater part of City work must be. Really to work with the brains immediately after an early dinner is, if not impossible, at any rate injurious. Probably the seeds of chronic dyspepsia are sown by this unwise habit.
What men should do is to eat a good hearty breakfast ; take a light lunch, say a few biscuits, or at the outside a piece of bread-and-cheese and a glass of ale, if this latter has not the effect of incapacitating them for work ; and then to make a good dinner at six or seven o’clock, or later, as the case may be.
There is one thing in connection with breakfast that should not be omitted to be mentioned, and that is coffee. How it is that, as a rule, good coffee can no more be obtained in England than tea in France, is difficult to say. One great secret, however, of French coffee is that it is always not only fresh ground, but roasted. I would therefore briefly advise you, in reference to coffee, first to buy it in the nibs, and grind it yourself ; secondly, never to grind it till just before you want it ; thirdly, before grinding it heat the coffee in the oven for a few minutes — this latter having the effect of bringing out the flavour ; lastly, do not grudge the coffee.
CHAPTER VII.
HOW TO GIVE A NICE LITTLE DINNER.
However strange may appear the statement, yet we have no hesitation in saying that one of the greatest steps ever made in economy in giving dinner-parties was the introduction into this country of the dinner la Russe. It will be our endeavour in the present article both to prove and illustrate this point by contrasting a small dinner-party of thirty or forty years ago with a modern one. As we have already remarked, our observations are intended to apply to those whose status in society may be best described as possessing neither poverty nor riches. We mil suppose the number of persons at dinner to be about ten or a dozen.
My mind now goes back to some people I knew very well in my younger days, and who will make admirable representatives of a very large portion of the backbone of English society ; exceedingly kind, generous, and hospitable, but whose ideas of cooking contained a strong element of contempt for what they called — recollect, I am speaking of thirty years ago — French messes.
The time is soon after Christmas, and the party a family one. The boys of the party, in their large white collars outside their jackets, look flushed and happy, and may be seen furtively looking from time to time at a bright yellow coin, which they keep in their waistcoat pockets — the coin in question being a recent “ tip ” in the shape of a Christmas-box from the stout and hospitable host.