Salads, sandwiches, and savouries

With the growth of culinary taste in the country, there has arisen a desire for dishes as tempting to the eyes as they are to the palate, and in conse- quence cooks have turned their attention vigorously towards the subject of garnishes and decoration generally, and it must be added that their zeal has not always been guided by discretion. Now, few things lend themselves more to decoration than the fancy dishes that are known generally as hors (Tcetivre, savouries, and entremets. In fact, a great part of theii’ value is decorative. At the same time in no case should the modesty of nature be over- stepped. Grotesque, eccentric, or even too realistic shapes are not commendable save in exceptional circumstances, whilst any decoration that suggests overmuch handling of any kind, is, to say the least of it, unpleasant. Dainty simplicity is the keynote of success in these matters, and, above all, remember it is not sufficient for a dish to “ look nice ” (how- ever perfectly it may fulfil that requirement), it inust also “ taste nice.” Pieces montees, as they are 112 SALADS, SANDWICHES, &c. called by chefs, are all very well for state banquets,, the shelves of a cookery exhibition, or similar places,, but for ordinary households, however dainty, they are out of place. In such establishments two cardinal rules should be strictly adhered to : 1. To make every part of the dish, decorative or otherwise,, fit (and looking fit, moreover) to eat. 2, Reduce all colouring, save what maybe obtained by natural means (and the range of colour obtained by the artistic use of edibles, is a large one), to its very smallest dimensions ; in fact, wherever possible^ eliminate the use of artificial colouring altogether. The first thing generally required for decorative purposes is a foundation, or stand, on which to show off the “ pretty little tiny kickshaws ” which usually make up the list of such things as are treated of in this collection. Small objects, sweet oi’ savoury, are always improved by being raised above the surface of the dish on which they are served, a fact well realised by all foreign cooks, who utilise all sorts of borders, stands, socles, &c.y for this purpose. Of these stands there are various kinds ; croutons, aspic borders, rice borders, or the white-fat socles. Croutons may be prepared in two ways. The first is to cut the cylinder, or plain stand, in very stale bread, masking this thickly and smoothly with any coloured chaufroix, or cream to taste, according to what it is to be used for, only remembering that as this is simply for decorative use, any expensive adjuncts, such as wine, etc., are unnecessary. The sauce should be good, well coloured and flavoured^ GARNISHES, &c. 113 so that the things arranged on it mav not contract any foreign flavour, but there the matter ends. Where a pure white is desired, prepare a good white sauce thus : Mix loz. of sifted flour to a