As a matter of fact the strong taste of
vinegar, flavoured or plain, which is such a marked
characteristic of aspic jelly, is absolutely destructive
of the delicacy of any sauce of which acidity is not a
feature, overpowering as it does the natural savour
of the foundation condiment. A sauce made by the
modern “ good cook’s ” formula of dissolving from
one to two parts of aspic jelly in one part of sauce
may produce a nice smooth masking-sauce, which, to
the average diner-out, is possibly palatable enough ;
but to the gourmet it leaves a good deal to be
desired, and if served as a chaufroix (without the
qualifying en aspic ) is distinctly a mistake. Aspic
jelly may be added with impunity to any sauce
CHAUFROIX, &c.
157
which contains vinegar or acids of any kind, such
as mayonna'se, mint, raifort, or even tomato sauce, but
it utterly destroys the delicate flavour of supreme or
bechamel sauce, and entirely changes the character of
such full-bodied sauces as the Espagnole, or the
Richelieu. Aspic chopped, or in blocks, may be used
as a garnish to any cold dish a discretion, on con-
dition that it is a garnish only, i.e., so served that its
consumption is not unavoidable by those to whom
its acidity is repugnant. As a proof of the truth of
this assertion try the following, the first, the supreme
en chaufroix of the first-rate chef ; the second, the
ordinary poulet en aspic, otherwise supreme, of the
average “ professed cook.” For the first, remove the
fillets from the breasts of one or more fowls accordino-
to quantity, slice these down neatly, into fairly thick
fillets, and place them on a well buttered baking tin,
seasoning them with white pepper, a very little salt,
and a squeeze of lemon juice, cover with a buttered
paper, and cook in the oven for eight or ten minutes.
When cooked lay the fillets on a dish, reverse
another over them, and lightly weight this to press
the chicken fillets till perfectly cold. Meanwhile
prepare a delicate white sauce by dissolving an
ounce or more of butter, blending it to a perfectly
smooth paste with about an ounce of fine sifted
flour, and then moistening this with rich white
stock, either entirely made from chicken bones, &c.,
or of these and veal stock in the proportion of one-
third veal to two-thirds chicken stock, delicately
flavoured with lemon juice, mushrooms, and parslev ;
when well blended and smooth dissolve in this \oz.
158
ENTRIES.
of the very best leaf gelatine (I always use Mrs.
A. B. Marshall’s gelatine, as for these delicate pre-
parations the most easily soluble and most tasteless
kind is indispensable) for each pint of sauce ; let it all
boil together till reduced about one-fourth, then add
a gill of double cream for each pint of sauce, and use
just as it is setting. Put the pan containing this sauce
in another half full of warm (not boiling) water to
keep it just at setting point, lift each fillet separately
on a broad-bladed or palette knife, and pour over it
(or “ mask ” it, as it is technically called) the stiffen-
ing sauce from a spoon, being careful to cover it all
thickly and smoothly, and then leave it till set. The
masking must then be repeated, only this time use
meat jelly prepared as below instead of the sauce, to
ensure the surface being nicely glazed.✪ Meat Jelly
Page 76 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
As a matter of fact the strong taste of vinegar, flavoured or plain, which is such a marked characteristic of aspic jelly, is absolutely destructive of the delicacy of any sauce of which acidity is not a feature, overpowering as it does the natural savour of the foundation condiment. A sauce made by the modern “ good cook’s ” formula of dissolving from one to two parts of aspic jelly in one part of sauce may produce a nice smooth masking-sauce, which, to the average diner-out, is possibly palatable enough ; but to the gourmet it leaves a good deal to be desired, and if served as a chaufroix (without the qualifying en aspic ) is distinctly a mistake. Aspic jelly may be added with impunity to any sauce
which contains vinegar or acids of any kind, such as mayonnaise, mint, raifort, or even tomato sauce, but it utterly destroys the delicate flavour of supreme or bechamel sauce, and entirely changes the character of such full-bodied sauces as the Espagnole, or the Richelieu. Aspic chopped, or in blocks, may be used as a garnish to any cold dish a discretion, on condition that it is a garnish only, i.e., so served that its consumption is not unavoidable by those to whom its acidity is repugnant. As a proof of the truth of this assertion try the following, the first, the supreme en chaufroix of the first-rate chef ; the second, the ordinary poulet en aspic, otherwise supreme, of the average “ professed cook.” For the first, remove the fillets from the breasts of one or more fowls according to quantity, slice these down neatly, into fairly thick fillets, and place them on a well buttered baking tin, seasoning them with white pepper, a very little salt, and a squeeze of lemon juice, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in the oven for eight or ten minutes. When cooked lay the fillets on a dish, reverse another over them, and lightly weight this to press the chicken fillets till perfectly cold. Meanwhile prepare a delicate white sauce by dissolving an ounce or more of butter, blending it to a perfectly smooth paste with about an ounce of fine sifted flour, and then moistening this with rich white stock, either entirely made from chicken bones, &c., or of these and veal stock in the proportion of onethird veal to two-thirds chicken stock, delicately flavoured with lemon juice, mushrooms, and parslev ; when well blended and smooth dissolve in this 1oz.
of the very best leaf gelatine (I always use Mrs. A. B. Marshall’s gelatine, as for these delicate preparations the most easily soluble and most tasteless kind is indispensable) for each pint of sauce ; let it all boil together till reduced about one-fourth, then add a gill of double cream for each pint of sauce, and use just as it is setting. Put the pan containing this sauce in another half full of warm (not boiling) water to keep it just at setting point, lift each fillet separately on a broad-bladed or palette knife, and pour over it (or “ mask ” it, as it is technically called) the stiffening sauce from a spoon, being careful to cover it all thickly and smoothly, and then leave it till set. The masking must then be repeated, only this time use meat jelly prepared as below instead of the sauce, to ensure the surface being nicely glazed.
Records on this page
Meat JellySupreme en Chaufroix