goes, as “ heated up,” or “ warmed over,” to use
her own detestable phrase, when she does not offer
the even more repulsive “ hotted-up.” If properly
prepared, meat is often nicer the second day than
the first, for many things gain by keeping. Take
curry for instance, always (if properly made) better
the second day than the first; whilst a stew, or a
fricassee, not to speak of a hash, is immensely
improved by the prolonged steeping of the meat in
its gravy, on the condition, of course, that it is
never allowed to re-boil in the course of its re-
heating. Our ancestors knew this when they
cherished those delicious hash dishes of theirs with
their dainty little spirit lamps under them, and the
outer hot-water jacket often seen with them ; these
same dishes, by the way, have been reintroduced
from America as novelties, under the name of
“ chafing-dishes.” Any persons possessing one of
these articles have only themselves to blame if the
hash is a failure. Try it this way and it is sure to
be a success, if only the directions are carefully
followed out : Have ready some nicely made brown
sauce (if the meat is brown, say mutton), add to
this a few drops of essence of anchovy, a very little
Harvey (for table cookery cruet sauces are per-
missible), a tiny squeeze of lemon, a dust of cayenne
or coralline pepper, and, lastly, a little, very finely-
minced parsley and chives or shallot. Lay the meat
into this and leave it to steep, covered, till the dish
is wanted ; then light the lamp, and let it all just
not come to the boil, and serve at once. This will
be found a very different dish from the hash aa
12
ENTRIES.
ordinarily understood. White meat can be heated
in the same way, only using white instead of brown
sauce, flavouring it with lemon juice and peel, a
very few drops of chilli vinegar, and a little mush-
room ketchup, being careful to keep the colour, by
the addition of a spoonful or two of new milk or
cream, to a very pa'e cream if it is not actually
white, which it can easily be if bechamel be used
for the foundation instead of veloute. A salmi of
game is made in precisely the same way, the only
secret lying in the flavouring.
It is difficult to class entrees very definitely as the
various kinds are apt to run into one another. For
instance, chicken fillets are frequently served on a
border of quenelle meat, or farce ; or cutlets are
finished off with a financiere ragout, &c.
Moreover, it must be remembered that entrees
are not necessarily always made of meat, but can be
prepared from fish or vegetables, but such dishes
will be given separately in the series set apart for
these.
CHAPTER II.
CUTLETS, FILLETS, &c.
Page 6
Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
goes, as “ heated up,” or “ warmed over,” to use her own detestable phrase, when she does not offer the even more repulsive “ hotted-up.” If properly prepared, meat is often nicer the second day than the first, for many things gain by keeping. Take curry for instance, always (if properly made) better the second day than the first; whilst a stew, or a fricassee, not to speak of a hash, is immensely improved by the prolonged steeping of the meat in its gravy, on the condition, of course, that it is never allowed to re-boil in the course of its reheating. Our ancestors knew this when they cherished those delicious hash dishes of theirs with their dainty little spirit lamps under them, and the outer hot-water jacket often seen with them ; these same dishes, by the way, have been reintroduced from America as novelties, under the name of “ chafing-dishes.” Any persons possessing one of these articles have only themselves to blame if the hash is a failure. Try it this way and it is sure to be a success, if only the directions are carefully followed out : Have ready some nicely made brown sauce (if the meat is brown, say mutton), add to this a few drops of essence of anchovy, a very little Harvey (for table cookery cruet sauces are permissible), a tiny squeeze of lemon, a dust of cayenne or coralline pepper, and, lastly, a little, very finely minced parsley and chives or shallot. Lay the meat into this and leave it to steep, covered, till the dish is wanted ; then light the lamp, and let it all just not come to the boil, and serve at once. This will be found a very different dish from the hash as
ordinarily understood. White meat can be heated in the same way, only using white instead of brown sauce, flavouring it with lemon juice and peel, a very few drops of chilli vinegar, and a little mushroom ketchup, being careful to keep the colour, by the addition of a spoonful or two of new milk or cream, to a very pale cream if it is not actually white, which it can easily be if bechamel be used for the foundation instead of veloute. A salmi of game is made in precisely the same way, the only secret lying in the flavouring.
It is difficult to class entrees very definitely as the various kinds are apt to run into one another. For instance, chicken fillets are frequently served on a border of quenelle meat, or farce ; or cutlets are finished off with a financiere ragout, &c.
Moreover, it must be remembered that entrees are not necessarily always made of meat, but can be prepared from fish or vegetables, but such dishes will be given separately in the series set apart for these.
CHAPTER II.