water of melted butter. For brown stock you allow
the flour and butter, which is the basis of the sauce,
to colour till it is of a soft light brown (be careful it
does not burn or cook too quickly, as in this case it
would have black spots through it, and all but
certainly acquire a bitter taste that no subsequent
dosing with wine, Harvey, or Worcester sauce will
either remove or even disguise), and then dilute it
with dark-coloured nicely flavoured stock. White
sauces depend for their flavour a good deal on the
little additions made to them in the process of
finishing off, as they are developed into their separate
divisions ; but brown sauce must taste fairly strongly
of good, well flavoured stock, though no actual
distinctive flavouring must be permitted when it is
simply to serve as the foundation of richer and
more intricate sauces, such as poivrade, browu
Italienne, Ac. Espagnole, on the contrary, is of
itself a somewhat strongly flavoured sauce, a slice or
two of lean ham or bacon, a sliced tomato, and a few
sprays of parsley, thyme, bayleaf, Ac., being allowed
to fry with the initial butter and flour, or roux, as it
is technically called. The stock added to this
should have had a slice of ham or smoked lean
bacon, some green onions, a little sherry, and a good
bouquet boiled with it to flavour or “ perfume ” it,
and the whole is boiled together till the sauce has
reduced a fourth part, both, to intensify its flavour
and to give it more substance. This point is one
not sufficiently attended to by British cooks, who
resort to the traditional “bit of butter rubbed in
flour,” and the stock adjuncts of the cruet stand,
6
ENTREES.
give their sauces the body and savour of the properly
made foreign ones, thus meeting with the fate of
those too ignorant or careless to start their work in
the right way, a proceeding that invariably brings
its own punishment in the shape of extra trouble.
Having mastered these details, the cook will soon
find that veloute, or velvet sauce (as its name would
run in English, from the smoothness to which it is
brought when properly made), will be the foundation
of such white sauces as need not be absolutely snow
white ; such as allemande (veloute enriched at the
last with egg yolks lightly beaten up with a little
new milk or cream, and made with stock rather
fully flavoured by boiling mushrooms or their
trimmings in it) ; Indienne (veloute finished off at
the last with a good piece of fresh butter rubbed up
with as much good curry powder as it will take up,
just allowed to bpil and then finished off with the
egg and milk liaison) ; pascaline (a good sauce for
hashed lamb by the way, made by adding a gill of
colourless stock made from the lamb bones, to three-
quarters of a pint of veloute, boiling the whole
down a fourth part with some chopped shallot and
mushroom peelings, then straining or tammying it,
and finishing with the egg and milk liaison, lemon
juice, and finely minced parsley✪ Pascaline Sauce and mushrooms),
&c. ; whereas the milk white bechamel would be the
foundation of sauce d la creme, or blanquette, when a
good slice of lean ham and a bay leaf are simmered
for twenty to thirty minutes in about three-quarters
of a pint of bechamel✪ Bechamel with Ham till reduced a fourth, then
tammied or sieved, and finished off like the pascaline
ENTRIES AND RECHAUFFES.
7
Page 3 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1901. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
water of melted butter. For brown stock you allow the flour and butter, which is the basis of the sauce, to colour till it is of a soft light brown (be careful it does not burn or cook too quickly, as in this case it would have black spots through it, and all but certainly acquire a bitter taste that no subsequent dosing with wine, Harvey, or Worcester sauce will either remove or even disguise), and then dilute it with dark-coloured nicely flavoured stock. White sauces depend for their flavour a good deal on the little additions made to them in the process of finishing off, as they are developed into their separate divisions ; but brown sauce must taste fairly strongly of good, well flavoured stock, though no actual distinctive flavouring must be permitted when it is simply to serve as the foundation of richer and more intricate sauces, such as poivrade, browu Italienne, Ac. Espagnole, on the contrary, is of itself a somewhat strongly flavoured sauce, a slice or two of lean ham or bacon, a sliced tomato, and a few sprays of parsley, thyme, bayleaf, Ac., being allowed to fry with the initial butter and flour, or roux, as it is technically called. The stock added to this should have had a slice of ham or smoked lean bacon, some green onions, a little sherry, and a good bouquet boiled with it to flavour or “ perfume ” it, and the whole is boiled together till the sauce has reduced a fourth part, both, to intensify its flavour and to give it more substance. This point is one not sufficiently attended to by British cooks, who resort to the traditional “bit of butter rubbed in flour,” and the stock adjuncts of the cruet stand,
give their sauces the body and savour of the properly made foreign ones, thus meeting with the fate of those too ignorant or careless to start their work in the right way, a proceeding that invariably brings its own punishment in the shape of extra trouble.
Having mastered these details, the cook will soon find that veloute, or velvet sauce (as its name would run in English, from the smoothness to which it is brought when properly made), will be the foundation of such white sauces as need not be absolutely snow white ; such as allemande (veloute enriched at the last with egg yolks lightly beaten up with a little new milk or cream, and made with stock rather fully flavoured by boiling mushrooms or their trimmings in it) ; Indienne (veloute finished off at the last with a good piece of fresh butter rubbed up with as much good curry powder as it will take up, just allowed to boil and then finished off with the egg and milk liaison) ; pascaline (a good sauce for hashed lamb by the way, made by adding a gill of colourless stock made from the lamb bones, to threequarters of a pint of veloute, boiling the whole down a fourth part with some chopped shallot and mushroom peelings, then straining or tammying it, and finishing with the egg and milk liaison, lemon juice, and finely minced parsley and mushrooms), &c. ; whereas the milk white bechamel would be the foundation of sauce d la creme, or blanquette, when a good slice of lean ham and a bay leaf are simmered for twenty to thirty minutes in about three-quarters of a pint of bechamel till reduced a fourth, then tammied or sieved, and finished off like the pascaline
ENTRIES AND RECHAUFFES.
Records on this page
Pascaline SauceBechamel with Ham