Lastly, there are cold sauces. For brown chaufroix sauces, roughly speaking, an excellent result may be obtained by placing in a pan a gill of any rich brown sauce, with half a gill each of wine and very strong stock, dissolving in this as it boils from ■|oz. to ^oz. of best leaf gelatine, skimming it well, and allowing it to reduce a fourth part ; then sieve and use as it cools. Manifestly this chaufroix can be varied according to the sauce and the wine used. For instance, brown sauce and sherry or Madeira ; espagnole and Madeira or champagne ; Richelieu with Chablis or port ; Perigeux Sauce and Burgundy ; Salmi sauce and port, &c., can all be used with excellent effect according to the meat to be masked, glazing all of these with strong, clarified, and just liquid stock, in which {-oz. to |oz. of gelatine to the half pint has been dissolved. White chaufroix may be made in exactly the same way, only using white stock and cream instead of the wine, and glaze. A delicate red chaufroix is produced by dissolving gelatine in a rich- coloured tomato sauce and using it in the same way ; whilst a very delicate green chaufroix may be made by adding ^oz. of gelatine and a drop or two of green colouring to the Creme cle concombres previously given amongst the white sauces. Of course, where aspic may be used with the sauces, you stir together a gill of any good sauce to half a 216 ENTRIES. pint of aspic jelly, let it reduce a little, and use when setting. Then, of course, en aspic must be added to the name of the dish. But aspic is not to be recommended for the finest white sauces, with which the acidity of the vinegar is apt to disagree. As a fact, almost all the delicate creme sauces previously given may be turned into chaufroix by the help of fine leaf gelatine, and are generally delicious, if stood on ice till perfectly cold, without being actually frozen, as are some of the more strongly flavoured ones. Mayonnaise. — Crush in a bowl with a wooden spoon about a teaspoonful of mustard flour, half an average saltspoonful each of salt and white pepper, then work into it the yolk of a raw egg (see that a special wooden spoon is kept for mayonnaise making, and that it is well scalded each time of using), and add to it, drop by drop, the very best salad oil, till it is quite as thick as butter ; then add about If tea- spoonfuls of vinegar (plain or flavoured, as you please), when it should become quite creamy, and is ready. It should be used at once, but if it must stand a little, stir into the above quantity about a small dessertspoonful of actually boiling water. The above will make half a pint of sauce. If from any cause, such as the too quick pouring in of the oil, &c., the sauce thin or curdle suddenly, the only thing to do is to break another egg into a clean basin and slowly work into it the curdled sauce, almost drop by drop. If stored in a cool place it is possible to keep mayonnaise good for a day or so, SAUCES. 217 but it must be closely covered up, for exposure to the air soon turns it oily and rank.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

Lastly, there are cold sauces. For brown chaufroix sauces, roughly speaking, an excellent result may be obtained by placing in a pan a gill of any rich brown sauce, with half a gill each of wine and very strong stock, dissolving in this as it boils from ■|oz. to ^oz. of best leaf gelatine, skimming it well, and allowing it to reduce a fourth part ; then sieve and use as it cools. Manifestly this chaufroix can be varied according to the sauce and the wine used. For instance, brown sauce and sherry or Madeira ; espagnole and Madeira or champagne ; Richelieu with Chablis or port ; Perigeux Sauce and Burgundy ; Salmi sauce and port, &c., can all be used with excellent effect according to the meat to be masked, glazing all of these with strong, clarified, and just liquid stock, in which {-oz. to |oz. of gelatine to the half pint has been dissolved. White chaufroix may be made in exactly the same way, only using white stock and cream instead of the wine, and glaze. A delicate red chaufroix is produced by dissolving gelatine in a rich- coloured tomato sauce and using it in the same way ; whilst a very delicate green chaufroix may be made by adding ^oz. of gelatine and a drop or two of green colouring to the Creme cle concombres previously given amongst the white sauces. Of course, where aspic may be used with the sauces, you stir together a gill of any good sauce to half a pint of aspic jelly, let it reduce a little, and use when setting. Then, of course, en aspic must be added to the name of the dish. But aspic is not to be recommended for the finest white sauces, with which the acidity of the vinegar is apt to disagree. As a fact, almost all the delicate creme sauces previously given may be turned into chaufroix by the help of fine leaf gelatine, and are generally delicious, if stood on ice till perfectly cold, without being actually frozen, as are some of the more strongly flavoured ones. Mayonnaise. — Crush in a bowl with a wooden spoon about a teaspoonful of mustard flour, half an average saltspoonful each of salt and white pepper, then work into it the yolk of a raw egg (see that a special wooden spoon is kept for mayonnaise making, and that it is well scalded each time of using), and add to it, drop by drop, the very best salad oil, till it is quite as thick as butter ; then add about If teaspoonfuls of vinegar (plain or flavoured, as you please), when it should become quite creamy, and is ready. It should be used at once, but if it must stand a little, stir into the above quantity about a small dessertspoonful of actually boiling water. The above will make half a pint of sauce. If from any cause, such as the too quick pouring in of the oil, &c., the sauce thin or curdle suddenly, the only thing to do is to break another egg into a clean basin and slowly work into it the curdled sauce, almost drop by drop. If stored in a cool place it is possible to keep mayonnaise good for a day or so, but it must be closely covered up, for exposure to the air soon turns it oily and rank.

The "Queen" cookery books: Entrees