Mushroom {Cepes, champignons, &Cj) — Of these there are a large variety, far more kinds being eaten abroad than in Great Britain, where considerable suspicion attaches to all but the best known varieties. Tlie worst is that there is no infallible method of ascertaining which kinds are wholesome, and if not perfectly wholesome, mushrooms are distinctly jx)isonous- In France very strict supervision is exer- cised over the mushrooms sent to market, so that accidents are comparatively rare. French cooks assert that if a silver spoon be placed in the pot or pan in which the mushrooms are cooking, if they are unwholesome the silver will discolour, in which case they throw the fungus away. But it must be borne in mind that however good mushrooms are when fresh, they become unwholesome, if not actually poisonous, when stale, and in no foreign market would the sale of such black-fleshed fungi as may frequently be seen in our English greengrocers’ shops be permitted. It is best, therefore, to be somewhat particular as to the origin and the freshness of the mushrooms we use. It may also be well to add the directions constantly given in French cookery books, and also by the Prefecture de la Police in Paris, for the treatment of persons poisoned by mushrooms. After such poisoning, neither brandy, ether, sal volatile, vinegar, nor water should be given ; oil, butter, and milk are alike useless ; an emetic must be taken at once, with a sharp aperient, and the doctor VEGETABLES. 75 should immediately be sent for. Granted, however, due precaution in their use, few things are nicer or more useful than the mushroom. Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. — Ghoose the thickest and firmest mushrooms for this, and wipe them well ; cut the underside across in lozenges, allow them to marinade for two hours in oil, pepper, and salt, then broil them. Mince two or three shalots (according to the quantity of mushrooms) with half their bulk of minced parsley, and fry these in either butter or oil, with pepper, salt, and a good squeeze of lemon juice✪ Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. As soon as the shalot has begun to colour pro- perly, pour this mixture on to the mushrooms, which should have been placed top downwards in a hot vegetable dish. Freshly ground black pepper should always be used for this dish. a la Bourgeoise — Pick, wipe, trim, and halve the mushrooms ; put some slices of good streaky bacon into a stewpan, and cook them over a slow fire for twelve to fifteen minutes, then add the mush- 1‘ooms, some minced chives or shalots, parsley, and freshly ground black pepper, dredging a very little dour over it all, and moistening it with a little stock and white wine (French for choice) ; stew the whole gently, and when the sauce is quite thick pour it all on to squares of fried bread, and serve dusted with coralline pepper, and a little vinegar or lemon juice. a la creme — Choose small mushrooms for this, and boil them for a few minutes in some good rich veloutc or cream sauce ; remove the crumb of a rasped French roll, and set the crust in the oven till 76 VEGETABLES. ■quite hot and crisp, set this on a hot dish, fill it with the mushrooms, and pour the rest of the sauce, &c., round it.

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Mushroom {Cepes, champignons, &Cj) — Of these there are a large variety, far more kinds being eaten abroad than in Great Britain, where considerable suspicion attaches to all but the best known varieties. Tlie worst is that there is no infallible method of ascertaining which kinds are wholesome, and if not perfectly wholesome, mushrooms are distinctly jx)isonous- In France very strict supervision is exer- cised over the mushrooms sent to market, so that accidents are comparatively rare. French cooks assert that if a silver spoon be placed in the pot or pan in which the mushrooms are cooking, if they are unwholesome the silver will discolour, in which case they throw the fungus away. But it must be borne in mind that however good mushrooms are when fresh, they become unwholesome, if not actually poisonous, when stale, and in no foreign market would the sale of such black-fleshed fungi as may frequently be seen in our English greengrocers’ shops be permitted. It is best, therefore, to be somewhat particular as to the origin and the freshness of the mushrooms we use. It may also be well to add the directions constantly given in French cookery books, and also by the Prefecture de la Police in Paris, for the treatment of persons poisoned by mushrooms. After such poisoning, neither brandy, ether, sal volatile, vinegar, nor water should be given ; oil, butter, and milk are alike useless ; an emetic must be taken at once, with a sharp aperient, and the doctor VEGETABLES. 75 should immediately be sent for. Granted, however, due precaution in their use, few things are nicer or more useful than the mushroom. Mushrooms a la Bordelaise. — Ghoose the thickest and firmest mushrooms for this, and wipe them well ; cut the underside across in lozenges, allow them to marinade for two hours in oil, pepper, and salt, then broil them. Mince two or three shalots (according to the quantity of mushrooms) with half their bulk of minced parsley, and fry these in either butter or oil, with pepper, salt, and a good squeeze of lemon juice. As soon as the shalot has begun to colour pro- perly, pour this mixture on to the mushrooms, which should have been placed top downwards in a hot vegetable dish. Freshly ground black pepper should always be used for this dish. a la Bourgeoise — Pick, wipe, trim, and halve the mushrooms ; put some slices of good streaky bacon into a stewpan, and cook them over a slow fire for twelve to fifteen minutes, then add the mush- 1‘ooms, some minced chives or shalots, parsley, and freshly ground black pepper, dredging a very little dour over it all, and moistening it with a little stock and white wine (French for choice) ; stew the whole gently, and when the sauce is quite thick pour it all on to squares of fried bread, and serve dusted with coralline pepper, and a little vinegar or lemon juice. a la creme — Choose small mushrooms for this, and boil them for a few minutes in some good rich veloutc or cream sauce ; remove the crumb of a rasped French roll, and set the crust in the oven till 76 VEGETABLES. ■quite hot and crisp, set this on a hot dish, fill it with the mushrooms, and pour the rest of the sauce, &c., round it.

The "Queen" cookery books: Vegetables