somewhat on the age and the kind of greens, but
fifteen to twenty minutes is a fair average. Greens
are also excellent if cooked in any way advised for
spinach, especially au gratin.
Herbs. — Of these there are a great variety, far
more being in use formerly than are now acknow-
ledged. It is a great pity the use of these is neglected,
as by them were obtained the flavours we all admire
in foreign cookery, and try to reproduce by the lavish
use of cruet sauces of various kinds, which, however,
never give the same delicate aroma or savour as the
natural herbs do. The herbs in most frequent use
are basil (excellent in connection with tomatoes in any
shape), chervil, chives, cress, fennel, marjoram,
mint, sage, savoury, thyme, and tarragon. To
these may be added bay leaves and horseradish,
though these are scarcely herbs. Of course herbs
are best used fresh, but as this is impossible all the
year round, the best plan is to pick them when in
perfection, and dry them slowly on sheets of white
paper, either in the sun or in very gentle heat, and
then powder them finely, putting each sort up sepa-
rately in wide-mouthed, closely-stoppered bottles,
each labelled with the name of the particular herb.
This is both a thriftier and cleaner way of saving
them than the old-fashioned method of hanging
them in bundles from the kitchen ceiling A tea-
spoonful of dried herbs equals a dessertspoonful of
fresh ones, measured after they are minced.
M. Gouffc recommends the preparation of a special
herb mixture for use in stuffings, stews, &c., and the
.advice of so noted a chef is not to be despised. “ Pound
VEGETABLES.
6.5
together as fine as possible 3oz. each of dried thyme,
bay leaves, and nutmeg (or mace), l^oz. each of dried
marjoram, rosemary, and whole black pepper, and
^oz. cayenne pepper. When perfectly fine sift this
into closely-stoppered bottles. Mind no stalks are left
in.” If to loz. of this seasoning you add 4oz. fine
table salt, you get the well-known French Sel e-pice.
Whilst on the subject of herbs a word must be
said re the bouquet, or “ bunch of herbs,” so frequently
mentioned in cookery books. A bouquet consists of
a spray of thyme, a bay leaf, and five or six fair-sized
sprays of parsley, all tied tightly together. There
is also a more elaborate bouquet known as B. garni
(though this name is also given to the previous one).
For this lay a small handful of parsley on the table, on
this lay the thyme and bay leaf, with one or two
small green onions, a strip of lemon peel, a tiny blade
of mace, one or two cloves, and, if liked, a small strip
of celery ; now fold the parsley well all over this in
a little torpedo-shaped bundle, tieing the ends tightly
so that its contents cannot escape, and leaving a bit of
string by which to lift it out at the last. This is
quite worth the trouble, as it can be dropped in and
lifted out so easily, and avoids all chance of bits of
the herbs being left in the dish at the last.
Hops (Houhlons). — The tops or tender young
shoots of these were formerly much used as a vegetable,
being generally cooked like asparagus, i.e., tied up
into neat bundles, boiled for twenty minutes in water,
to which a little stock had been added, and served
with any sauce to taste. Though not purchasable
in shops, hops are easily procured in the hop country.
F
06
VEGETABLES.
Page 33
Presented as published in 1902. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
somewhat on the age and the kind of greens, but fifteen to twenty minutes is a fair average. Greens are also excellent if cooked in any way advised for spinach, especially au gratin.
Herbs. — Of these there are a great variety, far more being in use formerly than are now acknowledged. It is a great pity the use of these is neglected, as by them were obtained the flavours we all admire in foreign cookery, and try to reproduce by the lavish use of cruet sauces of various kinds, which, however, never give the same delicate aroma or savour as the natural herbs do. The herbs in most frequent use are basil (excellent in connection with tomatoes in any shape), chervil, chives, cress, fennel, marjoram, mint, sage, savoury, thyme, and tarragon. To these may be added bay leaves and horseradish, though these are scarcely herbs. Of course herbs are best used fresh, but as this is impossible all the year round, the best plan is to pick them when in perfection, and dry them slowly on sheets of white paper, either in the sun or in very gentle heat, and then powder them finely, putting each sort up separately in wide-mouthed, closely-stoppered bottles, each labelled with the name of the particular herb. This is both a thriftier and cleaner way of saving them than the old-fashioned method of hanging them in bundles from the kitchen ceiling A teaspoonful of dried herbs equals a dessertspoonful of fresh ones, measured after they are minced.
M. Gouffc recommends the preparation of a special herb mixture for use in stuffings, stews, &c., and the advice of so noted a chef is not to be despised. “ Pound
6.5
together as fine as possible 3oz. each of dried thyme, bay leaves, and nutmeg (or mace), l^oz. each of dried marjoram, rosemary, and whole black pepper, and ^oz. cayenne pepper. When perfectly fine sift this into closely-stoppered bottles. Mind no stalks are left in.” If to loz. of this seasoning you add 4oz. fine table salt, you get the well-known French Sel e-pice.
Whilst on the subject of herbs a word must be said re the bouquet, or “ bunch of herbs,” so frequently mentioned in cookery books. A bouquet consists of a spray of thyme, a bay leaf, and five or six fair-sized sprays of parsley, all tied tightly together. There is also a more elaborate bouquet known as B. garni (though this name is also given to the previous one). For this lay a small handful of parsley on the table, on this lay the thyme and bay leaf, with one or two small green onions, a strip of lemon peel, a tiny blade of mace, one or two cloves, and, if liked, a small strip of celery ; now fold the parsley well all over this in a little torpedo-shaped bundle, tieing the ends tightly so that its contents cannot escape, and leaving a bit of string by which to lift it out at the last. This is quite worth the trouble, as it can be dropped in and lifted out so easily, and avoids all chance of bits of the herbs being left in the dish at the last.
Hops (Houhlons). — The tops or tender young shoots of these were formerly much used as a vegetable, being generally cooked like asparagus, i.e., tied up into neat bundles, boiled for twenty minutes in water, to which a little stock had been added, and served with any sauce to taste. Though not purchasable in shops, hops are easily procured in the hop country.
F