Old-fashioned cooks averred that ale in small quan-
tities (say from quarter to half a pint to the gallon
•of water) should always be added to the boiling
water of a treacle-cured ham; whilst for ordinary
•ones the last soaking water should contain a gill of
good vinegar, half a pint each of vinegar and cider
being added to the boiling water. Be very careful
COLD DISHES.
79
to see that the ham is well scrubbed and all rusty,
discoloured parts cut off before soaking, but do not
cut the skill more than you can help, as this is best
drawn off whole at the last. Hams, if very dry, will
take from thirty to thirty-five minutes per pound,
while fresher ones will only need about twenty-five
minutes, but the thickness of the ham must always
be taken into consideration. Foreign hams generally
take longer to soak than English ones, as they are
usually more highly dried ; a Westphalian ham, for
instance, should be soaked (in cold water) for twenty-
fom’ hours, then drained and covered with fresh cold
water, and soaked for twenty-four hours longer.
A Spanish ham will take quite thirty to forty hours’
soaking, and should always be put on in cold liquid-
water for the first hour, then stock, with vegetables,
spice, &c. York hams are only to be had in perfec-
tion if large.
Baih Chap. — The great secret in cooking this is to
soak it well and then to boil it very slowly. It will
take from eight to twelve hours’ soaking, and even
more if very diy, then boil and treat as advised for
boiled bacon.
Fielded Pork. — One of the nicest pieces for break-
fast use is the thin flank, or belly, part of a young
pig. It should be salted for two or three days with
a mixture of one saltspoonful of powdered saltpetre
to two tablespoonfuls of common salt (this any
butcher will do for you), then wash it in cold water
and dry it carefully with a cloth ; j)ut it on with
plenty of water and a bunch of herbs✪ Fielded Pork, bring it slowly
to the boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side
80 BREAKFAST AND LUNCH DISHES.
and simmer very gently till the meat is done ; from
twenty to twenty-five minutes per pound is a fair
average. Some cooks roll this pickled pork before
cooking it, and leave it under a weight to press till
cold, but many people object to this on account of
the rind, which must necessarily be left on.
Brawn. — This can really be made of almost every-
thing, from calf’s head upwards and downwards,
adding to the more tasteless meats slices of ham,
tongue, spiced beef, &c., but generally brawn is
made from pig’s head. Choose a small head, or
half a large one, weighing say from 41b. to 51b.,
with the feet and the tongue, clean the head
thoroughly, removing the eyes and the brains, and
soak the whole for an hour or two in cold water,
then put it in a pan with water enough to cover it,
adding, if the pig’s head be very fat, from ^Ib. to fib.
of lean beef ; the tongue must be cooked separately.
Bring the meat to the boil, skimming it carefully
and adding a good bunch of herbs and a carrot and
turnip, and let it all simmer together steadily till
you can lift out the bones quite easily ; now strain it
free of the broth, remove every atom of bone, and
cut, or better still, tear (this makes it form a more
compact substance) it into small pieces whilst hot,
seasoning it with salt and pepper and quatre cpices,
and stirring in the tongue similarly cut up ; a little
cayenne✪ Brawn may
Page 39 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1904. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Old-fashioned cooks averred that ale in small quantities (say from quarter to half a pint to the gallon •of water) should always be added to the boiling water of a treacle-cured ham; whilst for ordinary •ones the last soaking water should contain a gill of good vinegar, half a pint each of vinegar and cider being added to the boiling water. Be very careful
to see that the ham is well scrubbed and all rusty, discoloured parts cut off before soaking, but do not cut the skill more than you can help, as this is best drawn off whole at the last. Hams, if very dry, will take from thirty to thirty-five minutes per pound, while fresher ones will only need about twenty-five minutes, but the thickness of the ham must always be taken into consideration. Foreign hams generally take longer to soak than English ones, as they are usually more highly dried ; a Westphalian ham, for instance, should be soaked (in cold water) for twentyfom’ hours, then drained and covered with fresh cold water, and soaked for twenty-four hours longer. A Spanish ham will take quite thirty to forty hours’ soaking, and should always be put on in cold liquidwater for the first hour, then stock, with vegetables, spice, &c. York hams are only to be had in perfection if large.
Baih Chap. — The great secret in cooking this is to soak it well and then to boil it very slowly. It will take from eight to twelve hours’ soaking, and even more if very diy, then boil and treat as advised for boiled bacon.
Pickled Pork. — One of the nicest pieces for breakfast use is the thin flank, or belly, part of a young pig. It should be salted for two or three days with a mixture of one saltspoonful of powdered saltpetre to two tablespoonfuls of common salt (this any butcher will do for you), then wash it in cold water and dry it carefully with a cloth ; put it on with plenty of water and a bunch of herbs, bring it slowly to the boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side
and simmer very gently till the meat is done ; from twenty to twenty-five minutes per pound is a fair average. Some cooks roll this pickled pork before cooking it, and leave it under a weight to press till cold, but many people object to this on account of the rind, which must necessarily be left on.
Brawn. — This can really be made of almost everything, from calf’s head upwards and downwards, adding to the more tasteless meats slices of ham, tongue, spiced beef, &c., but generally brawn is made from pig’s head. Choose a small head, or half a large one, weighing say from 41b. to 51b., with the feet and the tongue, clean the head thoroughly, removing the eyes and the brains, and soak the whole for an hour or two in cold water, then put it in a pan with water enough to cover it, adding, if the pig’s head be very fat, from ^Ib. to fib. of lean beef ; the tongue must be cooked separately. Bring the meat to the boil, skimming it carefully and adding a good bunch of herbs and a carrot and turnip, and let it all simmer together steadily till you can lift out the bones quite easily ; now strain it free of the broth, remove every atom of bone, and cut, or better still, tear (this makes it form a more compact substance) it into small pieces whilst hot, seasoning it with salt and pepper and quatre épices, and stirring in the tongue similarly cut up ; a little cayenne may
Records on this page
Fielded PorkBrawn