FoodNet

The paper-bag cookery manual

1911

Page 50

Presented as published in 1911. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
That is why I am rather inclined to deprecate the insistance that has been laid on the merely expeditious advantages said to attach to paper-bag cookery. Getting rid of pots and pans, halving time and abolishing the odours of the cuisine, are not so important as ensuring an improved meal, both for the taste and the stomach. It is the cook’s business to consider whether the quicker system is also the more effective from a strictly dietetic point of view. Holding as I do that cooking in paper- bags possesses many obvious advantages, I have endeavoured to set forth some directions calculated to assist the cook in obtaining the best possible results. Un- doubtedly, paper-bag cookery is capable of producing some exquisite dishes, but only, of course, if it is scientifically carried out. j 130 THE PAPER-BAG COOKERY MANUAL. The following additional hints and obser- vations on the subject should therefore be carefully studied by those adopting this system : — First, the bag itself : This must be made of grease-proof paper, and be free from all injurious chemicals, both in its own composition and the paste used to bind it together. The size of the bag should be as convenient as possible for the amount of food intended to go in it — neither too large nor too small. A thorough examination should be made to make sure that there is no possibility of leakage. The slightest leakage would lead to the escape of juice, gravy, or flavour, thus tending to spoil the food so cooked. In the case of pastry or milk puddings, it is desirable to prick the top of the paper here and there. Before the bags are used they must be well greased over the inside with clarified butter, lard, clarified dripping, or olive oil. This has the effect of rendering them extra grease-proof as well as air-proof, a great factor in the success of any cooking by this process. In the case of meat for roasting, it is not so essential to grease the paper outside. When the food material has been placed in the bag, the opening must be folded over several times and secured with two, three, or more wire clips, so that the bag is well sealed. THE PAPER-BAG COOKERY MANUAL. 13 The next important point is the oven. If a gas oven is used, it should be lighted at least 10 minutes before the food is placed in it. The initial oven-heat should not be less than 220 degrees Fahrenheit. To ascertain the correct heat a cooking thermometer should be used. The paper-bag, when filled and ready for cooking, must be placed in the oven on a grid shelf, such as is usually provided in gas cooking stoves. In the case of coal- heated ovens, which have solid iron shelves, a wire grid or trivet should be used. The use of an oven thermometer, which can now be procured for the modest sum of 2s. 6c?., is recommended, so as to ascertain the correct temperature of the oven before the food is put in to be cooked. Hints on Sauce Making. To make a sauce without the use of a saucepan or stewpan is a somewhat difficult problem, but this is by no means impossible by the paper-bag cookery system, as will be seen from the directions given in a number of the recipes in this book. In several instances cream and egg-yolks are recom- mended for the purpose of thickening liquids — also Compound Butters. The latter are well known to all chefs, and these produce excellent results.