HE principle of the conserva- tion of flavour, represented by Paper-Bag Cookery, is as old as the hills, even though in the past it may have been main- tained by other means than that of paper wrappings. The author of the “ Cruise of the Cachalot,” Mr. F. T. Bullen, mentions the method practised by the Kanakas of the Friendly Isles, who used leaves instead of paper. A hole was scooped in the earth for the making of a wood fire, which was constantly replenished until it became a heap of glowing charcoal. Pebbles were then thrown in until the charcoal was covered. The object to be cooked was enveloped in leaves, placed upon the pebbles, and more leaves heaped upon it. The earth was then thrown back into the cavity and well stamped down. A couple of days would pass, and then the food would be dug up, smoking hot, retaining all its juices, and tender as a jelly. “No form of civilised cookery,” affirms the author, “ can in the least compare with it.” Darwin, in his voyage of the “Beagle,” describes a similar practice prevailing amongst the Tahitians, and in our own country, the Romany lass THE PAPEE-BAG COOKERY MANUAL. 9 still clings to the good old gipsy custom of enveloping her supper dish of roast hedge- hog in an outer covering of clay before she lays it carefully in the glowing-wood ashes. As cookery rose to the distinction of becoming one of the fine arts of civilization, the value of paper wrappings grew increas- ingly apparent. The open-fire roasting, so much in vogue in the early part of the Middle Ages, was soon found to need the use of well-oiled paper to wrap around the joint, and so hermetically seal the juices. Later on, when ovens came into fashion, the practice of wrapping flesh, fowl, or confectionery in a casing of paper as a part protection against the heat, but mainly to conserve the flavour, grew widely universal. Equally valuable, and equally familiar, was the envelope of paper used in some forms of oven stewing, whilst for grilling the method was practically a commonplace. In England, however, as compared with the Continent, the idea of paper-bag cookery moved somewhat slowly. Abroad, in those foreign countries which have always been noted for the excellence of their cuisine, the chefs and skilled experts have under- stood and applied, probably for centuries, the use of oiled cases for all such perishably flavoured dainties as red mullets, trout, quails, ortolans, sweetbreads, certain kinds of game, etc., and the more delicate of vegetables. Neither were they content 10 THE PAPER-BAG COOKERY MANUAL. with paper, but were wont to supplement their “papillote” methods by flour and water paste for joints of game and venison, and for the hermetical sealing of casserole lids, so as the more effectually to imprison the elusive fumet.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

HE principle of the conservation of flavour, represented by Paper-Bag Cookery, is as old as the hills, even though in the past it may have been maintained by other means than that of paper wrappings. The author of the “ Cruise of the Cachalot,” Mr. F. T. Bullen, mentions the method practised by the Kanakas of the Friendly Isles, who used leaves instead of paper. A hole was scooped in the earth for the making of a wood fire, which was constantly replenished until it became a heap of glowing charcoal. Pebbles were then thrown in until the charcoal was covered. The object to be cooked was enveloped in leaves, placed upon the pebbles, and more leaves heaped upon it. The earth was then thrown back into the cavity and well stamped down. A couple of days would pass, and then the food would be dug up, smoking hot, retaining all its juices, and tender as a jelly. “No form of civilised cookery,” affirms the author, “ can in the least compare with it.” Darwin, in his voyage of the “Beagle,” describes a similar practice prevailing amongst the Tahitians, and in our own country, the Romany lass still clings to the good old gipsy custom of enveloping her supper dish of roast hedgehog in an outer covering of clay before she lays it carefully in the glowing-wood ashes. As cookery rose to the distinction of becoming one of the fine arts of civilization, the value of paper wrappings grew increasingly apparent. The open-fire roasting, so much in vogue in the early part of the Middle Ages, was soon found to need the use of well-oiled paper to wrap around the joint, and so hermetically seal the juices. Later on, when ovens came into fashion, the practice of wrapping flesh, fowl, or confectionery in a casing of paper as a part protection against the heat, but mainly to conserve the flavour, grew widely universal. Equally valuable, and equally familiar, was the envelope of paper used in some forms of oven stewing, whilst for grilling the method was practically a commonplace. In England, however, as compared with the Continent, the idea of paper-bag cookery moved somewhat slowly. Abroad, in those foreign countries which have always been noted for the excellence of their cuisine, the chefs and skilled experts have understood and applied, probably for centuries, the use of oiled cases for all such perishably flavoured dainties as red mullets, trout, quails, ortolans, sweetbreads, certain kinds of game, etc., and the more delicate of vegetables. Neither were they content with paper, but were wont to supplement their “papillote” methods by flour and water paste for joints of game and venison, and for the hermetical sealing of casserole lids, so as the more effectually to imprison the elusive fumet.

The paper-bag cookery manual