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The "Queen" cookery books: Pickles and Preserves

1902

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Presented as published in 1902. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
meat should be cured at once; but if the meat is bought in the shape of pork it should be hung long enough to ensure its being tender, i. e. to give the time for the death stiffness (or rigor mortis ) to pass off. If the pig is home-killed be sure and save all the blood while the animal is still warm, letting it run into a bowl, and stirring it all the time with a wooden spoon to prevent its coagulating, when it would be utterly useless. The great thing in pig- killing is to make the blood run freely, if not it disperses internally and spoils the meat. Having taken away all the blood, scald the carcase well to facilitate the removal of the bristles, which is done by scraping the body with a blunt knife. Imme- diately this is accomplished hang the carcase up by the hind legs and slit it down the front, to allow of the removal of the intestines, &c. The gall must be carefully removed, and every vestige of blood any- where about the flesh wiped off most punctiliously. It does not do to wash the flesh of pork too much, as it would only soften, and so spoil, the meat. Set the parts removed aside in clean cold water to soak, as these must be thoroughly well washed and rinsed before use. When the carcase is perfectly cool it may be cut up. As regards this cutting up a good deal depends on the use to which the meat is to be put. The parts generally used fresh are the loin, either whole or in the shape of chops, the best end of the neck, used for cutlets; and the leg, often served fresh and roasted. Otherwise, the hind legs are reserved for curing hams, the front ones being cured as “hands” or “corner cushions” of 140 PICKLES AND PRESERVES. pork. Tlie head is usually divided up into the two cheeks, the rest of the head, with the tongue, being utilized for brawn. Of course the cutting up of the pig naturally depends on how you are going to use it. If it is going to be cured entirely, you would cut off the hind and fore legs as shown in the diagram, the sides thus left being known as the “flitches,” see Fig. 1. Where, however, the pig has a double duty to pay, i.e., to furnish both salted and fresh joints, Fig. 2 gives the method of dividing the carcase. In many cases half the pig is devoted to the pickling tub, the other half being reserved for fresh use. Besides these joints there is also the fat to be considered. That which lies round the kidneys is the most delicate, and is used for various purposes in cookery. In England it is known to country folk as the “flead,” and in France as “panne.” Most de- licious lard is prepared from this fat, if not wanted for the kitchen ; in France it is generally kept for the preparation of various delicate kinds of force- A. The Chine. B. The Head. C. The Leg. D. The Flitch. E. The Shoulder. F. The Pettitoes. MEAT, &c., TO CURE. 141 meat and for some sorts of sausages ; in England it Fig. 2. 1. Leg. 4. Head. 2. Loin. 5. Hand, or Hock. 3. Spare Eib or Foreloin. 6. Belly. is us°d fresh, in the preparation of some cakes known as “head cakes,” pastry, &c. These are made by 142 PICKLES AND PRESERVES. Head Cakes