The "Queen" cookery books: Pickles and Preserves

Where jam and preserve-making is a regular part of the housekeeping, a small outfit should be kept strictly for this purpose and none other. It need be neither costly nor extensive. A copper or bell-metal preserving pan (or, failing this, an enamelled one ; but these, though cheaper to begin with, are not really so economical, as they are so apt to burn and chip, and in either case are then unfit for delicate jam-making), a couple of fine hair sieves, two or three squares of coarse delicately clean muslin, three or four wooden spoons of varying size and length, such is the complete list. To these, however, may be added, if preferred, a small lamp or gas stove, both to save using the kitchen range, and also because in this case the heat is more easily and quickly regulated ; while, if the mistress is her own jam maker, a large silver or best plate spoon or two may be advised. Remember that neither tin, iron, nor pewter should touch jam on pain of spoiling the colour of the preserve. Please also bear in mind that the cardinal ride in jam-making is perfect and minute cleanliness. Every utensil or apparatus used must be absolutely clean and sweet. The sugar used must be pure cane (cheap sugar is one of the worst economies (?) ever devised, destructive alike to the appearance, flavour, and the keeping powers of any preserve made with it) ; the fruit must be just in perfection, neither over nor under-ripe, gathered on d 2 a dry, and if possible, sunny day, and be carefully picked over that there may be no imperfect or damaged fruit amongst it. Moreover, the fruit, if not used at once, must be kept in a cool place, well sheltered from dust. With regard to putting the sugar and fruit into the pan opinions vary. Some persons put in both together ; others, again, boil the sugar first, and then lay in the fruit (this, by the way, is the best plan, if you wish to keep the fruit whole) ; but, perhaps, the safest plan, on the whole, is to bring the fruit to the boil by itself first, and then put in the sugar (which should have been warmed, but not dissolved), as the keeping powers of the jam depend greatly on the thorough boiling of the fruit, which may take some little time ; yet, if you have the sugar boiling all the time, it will sometimes become quite sticky, and what old cooks call “tacky,” a result always due to the overboiling of the sugar. Again, if the fruit is not boiled sufficiently it will neither jelly nor set, and indeed, will almost certainly ferment. It is said that boiling up the fruit first, without the sugar, is a sure preventive of fermentation, and is decidedly to be recommended if jam has necessarily to be made in damp, muggy weather. As a general rule, the fruit and sugar should boil together from ten to fifteen minutes, but never longer than twenty minutes — in fact, when the fruit has been first boiled up alone, the shortest period mentioned is the best, But the safest plan is always to try the jam ( after skimming it till no more scum rises'), by dropping a little on to a plate, and if in about a minute it has jellied enough to be too stiff