IFor the American ice creams no custard at all is I ed, good thick cream being substituted. This form ice is made in two ways ; the cream is whipj^ed till ri3^ stiff, sweetened to taste, and frozen for a little, ?e flavouring essence✪ American Ice Cream, frait pulp, or liqueur, is then ded, and the whole frozen till dry. (This cream creases greatly in bulk in the freezing, becoming ' >m one-fourth to one-third more ; but it must be inembered that this kind deteriorates very quickly, d therefore is not so good if it has to stand any lie.) The second method is to scald the cream, by •icing the vessel containing it in another, three Tts full of cold water, and when this outer water ils up the cream is ready. If the cream itself is )iwed to boil it loses its power of expansion ; but ! scalding in the bain-marie does not interfere ih this, whilst giving a smoother, less raw flavoui*, m ordinary cream would produce, ijastly, there is the modern process by which both >se methods are combined ; the custard is cooked, • led, flavoured, and then half frozen, and lastly, a ••tion of whipped cream, varying from one- quarter one-half the bulk of custard used is stirred in with flavouring mixture, and the freezing is finished, thus made, though not as light and fresh -tasted tthe ice made with whipped cream only, is yet ch richer and lighter than the ordinary custard- um ice. Ice making is an easy process nowadays, iipared with what it used to be; still, like every- iig else, it requires care, and attention must be c ICES IS paid to a few points. First, never put tlie custard or cream into tlie freezer whilst wann, for if you do it will most probably curdle or granulate^ a fatal mistake, as properly made ice should always be perfectly smooth and even in texture. Moreover, cold custard involves less time, work, and ice. Be careful as to the proportion of sugar used, bearing in mind that freezing reduces the sweetening power of sugar ; if too much sugar be used the ice will not freeze properly; if too little is used, it will freeze; quite hard and rocky. Again, in freezing, the ice, if to be moulded, needs to reach the consistency of batter, but if to be used plain it must be frozen till quite dry and hard ; the longer it will have to stand the stiffer it shotdd be frozen. It is easy to tell how the freezing is progressing as the crank gets gradually harder to turn, as the ice stiffens. Ices should not be frozen too quickly, as they then freeze unevenly and will be coarse-grained ; to get the best effect the- machine should be worked steadily and evenly. One- more point to be noticed, and one that apphes to every kind of ice, and that is the need for strict attention to cleanliness in everything that concerns! ices and ice-making. It is almost in every casej better to add the sugar requii'ed in the form of syrup (for a recipe for this see chapter on “ Odds and Ends ”) rather than of plain sugar, water ices being specially improved by syrup. All kinds of ices can be made with either jam, or liqueur or fruit syrups, according to what you have; and of course, though generally lacking in the dehcacy of flavour given by fresh fruit, they are verj| t h I PLAIN ICES, CREAM AND WATER.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

For the American ice creams no custard at all is used, good thick cream being substituted. This form ice is made in two ways ; the cream is whipped till very stiff, sweetened to taste, and frozen for a little, the flavouring essence, frait pulp, or liqueur, is then added, and the whole frozen till dry. (This cream increases greatly in bulk in the freezing, becoming from one-fourth to one-third more ; but it must be remembered that this kind deteriorates very quickly, and therefore is not so good if it has to stand any time.) The The second method is to scald the cream, by •placing the vessel containing it in another, three-fourths full of cold water, and when this outer water boils up the cream is ready. If the cream itself isallowed to boil it loses its power of expansion ; but but scalding in the bain-marie does not interfere with this, whilst giving a smoother, less raw flavour, than ordinary cream would produce. Lastly, there is the modern process by which both two methods are combined ; the custard is cooked, cooled, flavoured, and then half frozen, and lastly, a portion of whipped cream, varying from one- quarter one-half the bulk of custard used is stirred in with flavouring mixture, and the freezing is finished, thus made, though not as light and fresh -tasted the ice made with whipped cream only, is yet much richer and lighter than the ordinary custard ice. Ice making is an easy process nowadays, compared with what it used to be; still, like everyiig else, it requires care, and attention must be paid to a few points. First, never put tlie custard or cream into tlie freezer whilst wann, for if you do it will most probably curdle or granulate^ a fatal mistake, as properly made ice should always be perfectly smooth and even in texture. Moreover, cold custard involves less time, work, and ice. Be careful as to the proportion of sugar used, bearing in mind that freezing reduces the sweetening power of sugar ; if too much sugar be used the ice will not freeze properly; if too little is used, it will freeze; quite hard and rocky. Again, in freezing, the ice, if to be moulded, needs to reach the consistency of batter, but if to be used plain it must be frozen till quite dry and hard ; the longer it will have to stand the stiffer it shotdd be frozen. It is easy to tell how the freezing is progressing as the crank gets gradually harder to turn, as the ice stiffens. Ices should not be frozen too quickly, as they then freeze unevenly and will be coarse-grained ; to get the best effect themachine should be worked steadily and evenly. Onemore point to be noticed, and one that apphes to every kind of ice, and that is the need for strict attention to cleanliness in everything that concerns! ices and ice-making. It is almost in every casej better to add the sugar required in the form of syrup (for a recipe for this see chapter on “ Odds and Ends ”) rather than of plain sugar, water ices being specially improved by syrup. All kinds of ices can be made with either jam, or liqueur or fruit syrups, according to what you have; and of course, though generally lacking in the delicacy of flavour given by fresh fruit, they are very

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American Ice Cream

The "Queen" cookery books: Ices