The "Queen" cookery books: Ices

A VERY pretty way of serving ices mucli adopted nowadays is the charlotte glacées — i.e., an outer casing is made of various kinds of cake, and is then filled with any ice to taste, either piled in rockily or moulded to fit. The simplest plan is to line a plain charlotte mould with a strip of oiled paper, then press all round it sponge fingers trimmed to fit, making these adhere by the use of white of egg, royal icing, or boiled sugar ; then let them stand till quite drv, turn out, and fill with any ice to taste, standing them for a little in the ice cave if necessary. Or ice-wafers, flat or rolled, can be used in the same way ; or strips of Florence or Genoise paste may be cut into a strip to fit the mould, and made to adhere, and filled, as before. Any of these ways can be used with plain * ice put in rockily, but perhaps the prettiest effect is obtained if the casing is made by fixing the cake, nougat, or whatever is used, round the outside of the mould, the ice itself being afterwards frozen in the mould on which the casing was originally shaped ; then the ice is turned out, the case delicately slipped over it, the top garnished with a macedoine of marinaded or iced fruit, and served at once. In short, it can be varied to any extent. A form of this charlotte is to be seen in the Chantilly baskets, made hy dipping little macaroons, oi ratafies in boiling sugar, and building them up round the inside or outside of any mould, and letting them stand till dry and firm, when they are turned out and used with a filling of any ice to taste. Iced fools are particularly nice served in this way, the top being piled up with frozen, sweetened, and flavoured whipped cream. To save themselves the trouble of preparing these cases — which require considerable neatness of hand and practice to make them perfect — cooks have taken to hollowing out whole cakes, decorating the case left with Viennese and other icing, and then filling up the centre with any ice to taste. These are not at all difficult to make, and have an extremely pretty effect ; and, as the portion cut out can be utilised as cake crumbs for many puddings, trifles, &c., there is no waste about them. Nougat case for Charlotte. — Prepare three-quarters of a poimd of nougat (see recipe), and turn it out on an oiled slab or board ; roll it out quickly, cut it in strips about one and a half inches wide, and as long as the depth of the mould ; set these aside till cold, then build them up roiuid a well-oiled charlotte mould, using boiled sugar to fix them. Put them aside till perfectly set and hard, then garnish to taste with icing, using a forcing bag and a small rose pipe for the piu’pose. A few rounds or half circles can also be cut from the nougat paste, similarly CHARLOTTES, GATEAUX GLACES, &c. 113