serving witli any kind of iced fruit is made by
sweetening a pint of stiffly whipped cream (whipped
very dry) , and flavouring it with vanilla, essence of
lemon, &c., moulding and freezing it.
The spongada is another form of ice, somewhat of
the natiue of a parfait, but not frozen so hard, and
seldom, if ever, moulded nowadays. Indeed, it is
too light to mould properly, and, when not served
separately in cups or glasses, is generally used as a,
centre for some other mould. In some rare cases it
is frozen sufficiently stiff to mould, but in that case
it is more like an ordinary moulded ice or parfait.
The old-fashioned freezing pot is generally used in
the preparation of this form of ice. The method of
its making is as follows : Having prepared the
mixture, it is strained into the charged freezer, which
is then covered down and turned sharply and steadily
for a few minutes till it begins to thicken ; now take
off the cover, and give it another turn or two un-
covered, easing the ice as it forms, with a spatula,,
from the bottom and sides of the pot ; as soon as it
thickens stop turning, and with the spatula work it
well up from the bottom, till the cream is (^uite soft
and light and fully double its original bulk, when
you add a little flavoui’ing and sweetening syrup, if
necessary, and serve at once, either in glasses, or
with a moulded ice, as preferred. The distinctive
mark of this kind of ice is its frothy lightness,
whence comes its name, and also the appellation of
spumante, or frothing, given to it in Italy, where it
108
ICES.
is mostly served. Needless to say, it is susceptible
of almost endless variety, according to the use to
which it is to be put. It is particularly dehcious if
shred almonds are added to it lightly, especially
when used in conjunction with a cream or water ice
set in a square or oval border mould. It is
occasionally used as a filling for bombes or melon
shapes.
Spongcidd oXlci JRomctnci, — Dissolve 6oz. of fine
vanilla chocolate and put it into a basin with a pint
of good sugar syrup, the whites of six eggs (lightly
broken up, but not beaten, with a fork), and a
tablespoonful each of vanilla and cinnamon sugars ;
mix these all well together, then strain the whole
through a sieve into the freezing pot, and work it as
described above till it has increased to nearly twice
the original bulk, when you dish it and stand it in
the ice cave for two or three hours till wanted.
Spongada alia Toledo. — Pound 8oz. of sweet and
2oz. of bitter almonds with half a pint of water, and
wring it through a tammy to express all the juice
possible ; there should be half a pint of this (known
in kitchen parlance as “ milk of almonds ”), then mix
this milk with a pint of strong sugar syrup, the
whites of six eggs, and a wineglassful of kirsch ;
strain it into the freezing pot, and work as in the
preceding recipe, to twice its original bulk, when you
add to it 6oz. of roughly chopped burnt almonds and
half a pint of whipped cream, and finish freezing as
before. Another way is to make a puree of the same
quantity of almonds by poimding them when
blanched, with about a gill of water, and nibbing
PARFAITS AND SPONGADAS. 109
Page 51
Presented as published in 1902. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
serving with any kind of iced fruit is made by sweetening a pint of stiffly whipped cream (whipped very dry) , and flavouring it with vanilla, essence of lemon, &c., moulding and freezing it.
The spongada is another form of ice, somewhat of the natiue of a parfait, but not frozen so hard, and seldom, if ever, moulded nowadays. Indeed, it is too light to mould properly, and, when not served separately in cups or glasses, is generally used as a, centre for some other mould. In some rare cases it is frozen sufficiently stiff to mould, but in that case it is more like an ordinary moulded ice or parfait.
The old-fashioned freezing pot is generally used in the preparation of this form of ice. The method of its making is as follows : Having prepared the
mixture, it is strained into the charged freezer, which is then covered down and turned sharply and steadily for a few minutes till it begins to thicken ; now take off the cover, and give it another turn or two uncovered, easing the ice as it forms, with a spatula, from the bottom and sides of the pot ; as soon as it thickens stop turning, and with the spatula work it well up from the bottom, till the cream is quite soft and light and fully double its original bulk, when you add a little flavouring and sweetening syrup, if necessary, and serve at once, either in glasses, or with a moulded ice, as preferred. The distinctive mark of this kind of ice is its frothy lightness, whence comes its name, and also the appellation of spumante, or frothing, given to it in Italy, where it
is mostly served. Needless to say, it is susceptible of almost endless variety, according to the use to which it is to be put. It is particularly delicious if shred almonds are added to it lightly, especially when used in conjunction with a cream or water ice set in a square or oval border mould. It is occasionally used as a filling for bombes or melon shapes.
Spongada alla Romana, — Dissolve 6oz. of fine vanilla chocolate and put it into a basin with a pint of good sugar syrup, the whites of six eggs (lightly broken up, but not beaten, with a fork), and a tablespoonful each of vanilla and cinnamon sugars ; mix these all well together, then strain the whole through a sieve into the freezing pot, and work it as described above till it has increased to nearly twice the original bulk, when you dish it and stand it in the ice cave for two or three hours till wanted.
Spongada alia Toledo. — Pound 8oz. of sweet and 2oz. of bitter almonds with half a pint of water, and wring it through a tammy to express all the juice possible ; there should be half a pint of this (known in kitchen parlance as “ milk of almonds ”), then mix this milk with a pint of strong sugar syrup, the whites of six eggs, and a wineglassful of kirsch ; strain it into the freezing pot, and work as in the preceding recipe, to twice its original bulk, when you add to it 6oz. of roughly chopped burnt almonds and half a pint of whipped cream, and finish freezing as before. Another way is to make a puree of the same quantity of almonds by poimding them when blanched, with about a gill of water, and rubbing