It may, however, be mentioned that the fflombiere
and the fflomage are now rather out of date ; the
'bombe, in its original form, being also old-fashioned,
•though its name is still seen on mentis. Originally
it was introduced by Francatelli, it is said, and was
• then made in the shape of a shell or bomb, the flame
•that is emitted by a live shell, being reproduced in
•spun sugar. This grim reminiscence of war declined
: in favour after the Crimean campaign ; now, though
•the name still remains, the shape is altered, as will
I be seen by Fig. 1, and almost all tall conical moulds
.are called by this name nowadays. The plombiere
' derived its name from the metal of which the mould
^was made originally, namely lead (plomb), and the
tterm was applied rather indiscriminately to the
imould and to the pail or sorbetiere in which the ice
4
ICES.
was made. The fromage, or cheese, was a plain
mould divided internally by strips of metal, allowing
of differently coloured and flavoured ices being
sbpped in, the strips being then removed, the whole
lightly pressed together, and frozen as a whole. (II
Fig. 1.
was, however, sometimes served as a block of one sort
of ice only, generally sweetened, frozen, pure cream,
and used as an accompaniment to fruit.) The modern
version of this ice is the Neapolitan, a brick- shaped
mould (see Fig. 2) filled in layers with differently
tinted and flavoured ices, then turned out, and sliced
ORIGIN AND KIND.
5
iiacross so a.s to show the stripes. The iced pudding
iis a more or less rich custard mixed with preserved
ffruits, &c., packed in a mould and frozen ; this of
course may be of ahnost any shape. The iced
xharlotte is, as its name implies, made in the
ordinary plain charlotte mould, lined with biscuits,
p wafers, slices of Genoa or other rich cake, &c., and
EfiUed up with any ice to taste. A very modern ver-
^sion of this is the gateau glace, when a rich cake of
jsome kind is hollowed out and served with a fruit
jgamish and a filling of any sort of ice. The iced
'souffle is a very rich form of very light whipped
;mstard, placed in a papered souffle mould, allowed to
«set in the ice cave, and finally served with the outside
paper removed to give it the appearance of having
risen (see Fig. 3, for the papering of the mould).
IThe mousse is made of the same preparation as is
used for the iced souffle, only it is moulded instead of
X)eing put into the souffle case. The difference be-
, :ween this and the ordinary ice pudding is that in the
tatter case the ice to be used is first frozen in the
'freezer till of the consistency of very thick batter.
6
ICES.
and is then put into the mould, care being taken to
j)ress the ice well into the shape of the mould so that
when turned out the outline should be clear and
distinct ; whereas the souffle or mousse is mixed and
poured at once into the dish in which it is to be
served. Lastly, there are the moscovite, and the
spongada. The former is a simpler form of iced
puding stiffened with a small j)roportion of
isinglass or best leaf gelatine, which is, however,
never actually frozen, though it is iced till as cold as it
Page 2
Presented as published in 1902. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
It may, however, be mentioned that the plombière and the fromage are now rather out of date ; the bombe, in its original form, being also old-fashioned, though its name is still seen on menus. Originally it was introduced by Francatelli, it is said, and was then made in the shape of a shell or bomb, the flame •that is emitted by a live shell, being reproduced in spun sugar. This grim reminiscence of war declined in favour after the Crimean campaign ; now, though the name still remains, the shape is altered, as will I be seen by Fig. 1, and almost all tall conical moulds are called by this name nowadays. The plombière derived its name from the metal of which the mould was made originally, namely lead (plomb), and the term was applied rather indiscriminately to themould and to the pail or sorbetière in which the ice
was made. The fromage, or cheese, was a plain mould divided internally by strips of metal, allowing of differently coloured and flavoured ices being poured in, the strips being then removed, the whole lightly pressed together, and frozen as a whole.
Fig. 1.
was, however, sometimes served as a block of one sort of ice only, generally sweetened, frozen, pure cream, and used as an accompaniment to fruit.) The modern version of this ice is the Neapolitan, a brick- shaped mould (see Fig. 2) filled in layers with differently tinted and flavoured ices, then turned out, and sliced
across so as to show the stripes. The iced pudding is a more or less rich custard mixed with preserved fruits, &c., packed in a mould and frozen ; this of course may be of almost any shape. The iced charlotte is, as its name implies, made in the ordinary plain charlotte mould, lined with biscuits, p wafers, slices of Genoa or other rich cake, &c., and EfiUed up with any ice to taste. A very modern ver- sion of this is the gâteau glacé, when a rich cake of some kind is hollowed out and served with a fruit
garnish and a filling of any sort of ice. The iced soufflé is a very rich form of very light whipped custard, placed in a papered soufflé mould, allowed to set in the ice cave, and finally served with the outside paper removed to give it the appearance of having risen (see Fig. 3, for the papering of the mould). The mousse is made of the same preparation as is used for the iced souffle, only it is moulded instead of being put into the soufflé case. The difference between ,between this and the ordinary ice pudding is that in the latter case the ice to be used is first frozen in the 'freezer till of the consistency of very thick batter.
and is then put into the mould, care being taken to press the ice well into the shape of the mould so that when turned out the outline should be clear and distinct ; whereas the soufflé or mousse is mixed and poured at once into the dish in which it is to be served. Lastly, there are the moscovite, and the spongada. The former is a simpler form of iced puding stiffened with a small proportion of isinglass or best leaf gelatine, which is, however, never actually frozen, though it is iced till as cold as it