English and French cookery

Beer is beyond question an admirable drink, suited more or less to all occasions, except with fish or salads. To tell good beer, there is only one test — the stomach. No one ever got rheumatism or indi- gestion from genuine ‘ home-brewed.’ Yet every day we meet with persons who say they cannot take the brilliant and apparently perfect beers retailed everywhere. The home-brewed is a simple product, whereas too many of the beers of commerce are but showy imitations. It is not pretended they are adulterated, according to the Act of Parlia- ment ; but many will allow they will not stand the test of the stomach, owing to the materials from which they are produced, and the chemical compounds added to them for one purpose and another. We find people saying they cannot drink beer, when they would be more correct if they were to declare that they cannot drink the beers which they have hitherto tried. All things considered, the modest housekeeper 118 ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKERY. will do best to obtain a supply in cask from some ‘ family brewer.’ 1 he cask itself should be firmly mounted on the stand, or whatever contrivance is arranged to support it ; for should the beer be shaken after any appreciable quantity has been drawn off, the chances are that it will remain permanently cloudy. A wooden tap is best, always sup- posing it to be scrupulously cleansed each time before it is driven into a fresh cask. Whether one has bitter, mild, or black beer, is of course purely a matter of individual taste ; people will do well, however, not to permit themselves to be over influenced by the ‘ fine tonic bitter ’ theory. A pronounced bitter flavour is easily imparted, and beer may be wretched stuff in spite of its striking ‘ tonic.’ Bottled beer is much lighter and with some more digestible than that from a cask. Here again, however, recent improvements (?) and the exigencies of competi- tion have completely altered the former state of things. The old- fashioned bottled ‘ Bass’s 1 and ‘ Guinness’s, ’ so highly prized, and, in fact, the same beers as are still bottled for export, and by a few firms for home consumption, are to all intents and purposes a different article from the popular-priced bottled beers of to-day. The former were carefully selected for bottling, and bottled when the beer was in the particular condition suitable to the purpose. The gas was self-pro- duced, generated by the beer itself during a slight fermentation in the bottle. The result, a magnificent drink, a sort of malt champagne. Nowaday all bottled beer merchants cannot afford to wait this slow pro- cess. Some bottle the beer regardless of condition, and supply the carbonic acid gas artificially from a machine similar to what is used for the manufacture of soda water. At the same time it would be un- reasonable to expect India pale ale at 2s. 6d. or 3s. a dozen imperial pints. Some of the bottled light ‘ dinner ales ’ sold at this price, when carefully bottled, are excellent value.