a current of fresh air before a well-made fire, is now half stifled in a close atmosphere of its own vapours, very much to the destruction of the characteristic flavour of a roast.’ Recent experiments, however, have done much for the improvement of ovens, and this matter of ven- tilation having been more carefully considered, the chief objection to a very convenient and economical mode of cooking is no longer a necessity of the process. For pastry, bread, cakes, custards, and puddings, for many savoury meat dishes, and for making soups and gravies, the oven will always remain in favour, 'and it is well known that meat loses least in weight by baking. The modern oil cooking stoves of Messrs. Wright and Butler, of Birmingham, and the gas-stoves of approved makers, now perform baking to perfection. Frying. Frying is also a process frequently condemned by scientific autho- rities, mainly perhaps because it is in high favour with bad cooks. ‘ Contrast,’ says a good authority, 1 for one moment the discoloured dish, too often met with in private houses, in which, say, a little bit of fish is sent up, and presents what may be called a parti-coloured appear- ance. Some part is burned black as a cinder, another part looks the colour of underdone pie-crust, and again other parts present bald patches, as if the cook had accidentally spilled some boiling water on a cat’s back. Contrast this, I say, with the beautifully rich golden- coloured dish that will make its appearance at the table where the master mind of one like Francatelli has presided, or with a dish that one would meet with in a Parisian cafii, the bright silver dish contrast- ing temptingly with the gold-coloured food and the crisp dark green parsley piled in the centre ’ — a work of art which pleases both eye and palate, senses nigher akin in their respective offices than coarse natures and thoughtless cooks can imagine them to be. Who that has tasted a well-fried sweetbread tastefully and prettily dished up in ball or cutlet form has not owned the relish with which he has partaken ? How eat- able well-fried smelts and trout are ! what a relishing dish is fried chicken, and how nice are well-fried potato chips ! The condition of the fire is of importance ; you cannot fry properly over a bad one ; continuous care is another necessary condition. Successful frying, in short, demands both skill and knowledge, and in proportion to their exercise and degree will be the reputation of both frying and the fry. ‘ The art of frying,’ says Sir Henry Thompson, ‘ is little understood, and the omelette is almost entirely neglected by our countrymen. The products of our frying-pan are often greasy, and therefore for many persons indigestible, the shallow form of the pan being unsuited for the process of boiling in oil, that is, at a heat of nearly 500° Fahr. (that of boiling water being 212°). This high temperature produces results 22 ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKERY.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

a current of fresh air before a well-made fire, is now half stifled in a close atmosphere of its own vapours, very much to the destruction of the characteristic flavour of a roast.’ Recent experiments, however, have done much for the improvement of ovens, and this matter of ventilation having been more carefully considered, the chief objection to a very convenient and economical mode of cooking is no longer a necessity of the process. For pastry, bread, cakes, custards, and puddings, for many savoury meat dishes, and for making soups and gravies, the oven will always remain in favour, 'and it is well known that meat loses least in weight by baking. The modern oil cooking stoves of Messrs. Wright and Butler, of Birmingham, and the gas-stoves of approved makers, now perform baking to perfection. Frying. Frying is also a process frequently condemned by scientific authorities, mainly perhaps because it is in high favour with bad cooks. ‘ Contrast,’ says a good authority, 1 for one moment the discoloured dish, too often met with in private houses, in which, say, a little bit of fish is sent up, and presents what may be called a parti-coloured appearance. Some part is burned black as a cinder, another part looks the colour of underdone pie-crust, and again other parts present bald patches, as if the cook had accidentally spilled some boiling water on a cat’s back. Contrast this, I say, with the beautifully rich golden-coloured dish that will make its appearance at the table where the master mind of one like Francatelli has presided, or with a dish that one would meet with in a Parisian café, the bright silver dish contrasting temptingly with the gold-coloured food and the crisp dark green parsley piled in the centre ’ — a work of art which pleases both eye and palate, senses nigher akin in their respective offices than coarse natures and thoughtless cooks can imagine them to be. Who that has tasted a well-fried sweetbread tastefully and prettily dished up in ball or cutlet form has not owned the relish with which he has partaken ? How eatable well-fried smelts and trout are ! what a relishing dish is fried chicken, and how nice are well-fried potato chips ! The condition of the fire is of importance ; you cannot fry properly over a bad one ; continuous care is another necessary condition. Successful frying, in short, demands both skill and knowledge, and in proportion to their exercise and degree will be the reputation of both frying and the fry. ‘ The art of frying,’ says Sir Henry Thompson, ‘ is little understood, and the omelette is almost entirely neglected by our countrymen. The products of our frying-pan are often greasy, and therefore for many persons indigestible, the shallow form of the pan being unsuited for the process of boiling in oil, that is, at a heat of nearly 500° Fahr. (that of boiling water being 212°). This high temperature produces results

English and French cookery