FoodNet

English and French cookery

1890

Page 3

Presented as published in 1890. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
ort of solid meat. As Dr. Herbert Mayo says, ‘Diet should, be varied' And he adds, ‘A spoonful of soup, a flake of fish, a slice of cold beef, in succession, will often provoke an appetite, and with it digestion, where the nicest mutton cutlet, or the most tempting slice of a haunch of venison, would have gone against the stomach.’ Petroleum Oil Stoves arc the cheapest, safest, and most efficient way of cook- ing known. In five minutes from time of lighting one of Wright and Butler's ' Acme Combination ’ Oil Cookers is at full power, and requires no further atten- tion. The trimming, filling, and lighting occupy three minutes. Illustrated Cata- logue free from Wright and Butler, Limited, Birmingham.— See Advertisement. 10 ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKERY. English versus French Cookery. Soyer in his ‘ Modern Housewife ’ speaks of the English system of cookery prevailing in his day as one which ‘ creates great waste and makes bad food out of good meat,’ at an increased money cost. He urged that by adopting the French system of cookery, with a little sound knowledge of principles and the exercise of ordinary care and thoughtfulness, families might live well and dine well eveiy day at less cost than serves to provide the majority of English families with unattractive and often very unwholesome fare. He says, very sensibly, as we think, ‘ I shall name all joints of meat which, though numerous, offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way, and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a few which are considered the best. They are as follows ‘ Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, aitchbone. ‘ In mutton — leg, saddle, haunch, loin. ‘ Lamb — fore quarter and leg. ‘ Veal — fillet, loin. ‘ Pork — leg, sparerib, loin. 1 Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as good.’ He then speaks of what can be done in the way of made dishes out of such parts as are rarely used in this country by the middle classes, and adds, ‘ To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over all the joints that are cut from beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a want of the knowledge of cookery, leaving the science of cooking our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away, after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu ; taste the broth and eat the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not think that I object to your plain joints, because, now and then, I am rather partial to them ; but why not manage to make use of the broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, instead of galloping them at a special railway train speed ? Were the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less expensively than at present ; very often, four or five different little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday’s joint, instead of its ap- pearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle of variegated-coloured pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, whi