(brciiae or mirepoix) in a closely-covered vessel, from which as little evaporation as possible is permitted, and is exposed for a considerable time to a surrounding heat just short of boiling.’ By this treatment tough, fibrous flesh, whether of poultry, or of cattle, or meat unduly fresh, such as can alone be procured during the summer season in towns, is made tender, and is furthermore impregnated with the odours and flavour of fresh vegetables and sweet herbs, while the liquor itself, slowly reduced in the process, furnishes the most appro- priate, fragrant, and delicious sauce with which to surround the portion when served at table. Thus, also, meats which are dry and of little flavour, as veal, become saturated with juices, which render the food succulent and delicious. Small portions sufficing for a single meal, however small the family, can be so dealt with ; and a r&chauffie, or cold meat for to-morrow, is not a thing of necessity, but only of choice when preferred. Spices and wine are sometimes used to impart their flavours. The process of cooking a braise is thus spoken of by J ules Gouffe in his ‘ Le Livre de Cuisine ’ : The chief operation is one of slow simmering, for, he says, if the meat be exposed to sudden heat the gravy is insipid, colourless, and weak, as it too often is in such preparations by careless or ignorant cooks. The gravy should be highly nutritious, of a rich high colour and flavour, and of gelatinous consistency. 1 1 advise,’ he says, ‘ that for braising the quantity of meat should be large rather than small, as a long process of cooking is most effective, and you at once obtain two admirable dishes instead of one, for when the braise is cold it is equally good, and affords a pleasant change.’ Broiling. This is a process in general favour with both cooks and physicians, as it retains in the meat the more nutritious qualities and flavour, their evaporation and exhalation being prevented by the sudden closing together of the fibres, or, in other words, the hardening and browning of the surface. The gridiron, kept always in a perfectly clean con- dition, should be made hot and previously rubbed with a piece of clean fat to prevent scorching, and thereby disfiguring the appearance of the food ; and the fire, where coal or coke is used, should be clear and bright. The great art lies in suiting the time of cooking and the number of turns to the size, thickness, and general character of the meat you have to broil — a beef steak, for instance, requiring more frequent turning than a mutton chop, and a pork chop requiring a longer time for its broiling than a steak. Special care must be exer- cised to keep the fat from falling into the fire, as the sudden blaze conveys a smoky flavour to the meat. But above everything, take care not to pinch the meat in turning, or the juices will run out, and much of the flavour be lost. At the first cut from a well-cooked steak or 2-1 ENGLISH AND FRENCH COOKEBT.

AI-modernized reading of the original text

(braise or mirepoix) in a closely-covered vessel, from which as little evaporation as possible is permitted, and is exposed for a considerable time to a surrounding heat just short of boiling.’ By this treatment tough, fibrous flesh, whether of poultry, or of cattle, or meat unduly fresh, such as can alone be procured during the summer season in towns, is made tender, and is furthermore impregnated with the odours and flavour of fresh vegetables and sweet herbs, while the liquor itself, slowly reduced in the process, furnishes the most appropriate, fragrant, and delicious sauce with which to surround the portion when served at table. Thus, also, meats which are dry and of little flavour, as veal, become saturated with juices, which render the food succulent and delicious. Small portions sufficing for a single meal, however small the family, can be so dealt with ; and a réchauffié, or cold meat for to-morrow, is not a thing of necessity, but only of choice when preferred. Spices and wine are sometimes used to impart their flavours. The process of cooking a braise is thus spoken of by J ules Gouffe in his ‘ Le Livre de Cuisine ’ : The chief operation is one of slow simmering, for, he says, if the meat be exposed to sudden heat the gravy is insipid, colourless, and weak, as it too often is in such preparations by careless or ignorant cooks. The gravy should be highly nutritious, of a rich high colour and flavour, and of gelatinous consistency. 1 1 advise,’ he says, ‘ that for braising the quantity of meat should be large rather than small, as a long process of cooking is most effective, and you at once obtain two admirable dishes instead of one, for when the braise is cold it is equally good, and affords a pleasant change.’ Broiling. This is a process in general favour with both cooks and physicians, as it retains in the meat the more nutritious qualities and flavour, their evaporation and exhalation being prevented by the sudden closing together of the fibres, or, in other words, the hardening and browning of the surface. The gridiron, kept always in a perfectly clean condition, should be made hot and previously rubbed with a piece of clean fat to prevent scorching, and thereby disfiguring the appearance of the food ; and the fire, where coal or coke is used, should be clear and bright. The great art lies in suiting the time of cooking and the number of turns to the size, thickness, and general character of the meat you have to broil — a beef steak, for instance, requiring more frequent turning than a mutton chop, and a pork chop requiring a longer time for its broiling than a steak. Special care must be exercised to keep the fat from falling into the fire, as the sudden blaze conveys a smoky flavour to the meat. But above everything, take care not to pinch the meat in turning, or the juices will run out, and much of the flavour be lost. At the first cut from a well-cooked steak or 2-1

English and French cookery