FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 97

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
with his meats should not forget that he himself calls for apple sauce with a goose and currant jelly with his mutton. The Sauerkraut, red or white, which has been boiled in soup and vinegar makes its appearance at the close of the feast to complete the cook’s victory. The black and brown breads of Germany deserve a word. The Hamburger Schwarzbrot is the best bread in the world to eat with cheese, and the Pumpernickel from Westphalia forms with raw ham a sandwich much relished in Germany. The cookery in the big hotels on much-frequented routes in Germany is now almost universally a rather heavy version of the French art, with perhaps a kompot with the veal to give local colour. In the small hotels in little provincial towns the meals are served at the times that the middle-class German of the north usually eats them, and are an inferior copy of what he gets in his own home. I give what any enterprising traveller looking for the food of the country from the kitchen of a country inn of the better class may expect : — Coffee at 7 or 8 a.m. with rolls, Kaffe Brodchen> and butter, and this meal he will be expected to descend to the dining-room to eat. The Zweites Friihstuck comes at 10 a.m., at which the German equivalent for a sandwich, a Brodchen cut and buttered, with a slice of uncooked ham or cheese between the halves, makes its appearance, and a glass of beer or wine is drunk. People with work to do generally take a sandwich with them to their shops or offices. Dinner (Mittagessen) is announced between noon and 2 o’clock, and is a long meal consisting of soup, which in a poor inn often is the water in which the beef has been boiled, or perhaps Eintropfen , a soup thickened with biscuit flour and with egg in it, or a lentil soup, with Zwiebach as an accompaniment ; fish ; a messy entree, probably of Frankfurt sausage; the German Towns 177 beef boiled to rags with a kompot of plums or whortle- berries and mashed apples, or if it is a roast brisket, served with a garnish of vegetables. Hasenbraten , a hare roasted, is a favourite dish, and at the better-class inns Sauerbratten , meat soaked in spiced vinegar before it is roasted, and served with potato balls and ginger- bread, is popular. The Roast-beef Garniert, if served at one of the better-class restaurants, is brought to table in a large dish which has compartments for apricot jam, plum jam, stewed cherries, cauliflower, peas, lettuce, rice, and spinach. Cream puddings, pancakes, or open tarts with cream, are the usual dishes for the last course. Black coffee and fruit make their appear- ance in company. Coffee is served at 4 p.m. with Kaffee Kuchen , its attendant cakes, flavoured with nuts, peaches, cheese, or honey ; and at supper (Abendessen) one hot dish, generally veal, is given with a choice of cold viands or sausages in thin slices — Leberwurst , Gottinger - wurst , hot Frankfurter in pairs, Zervatelwurst , of pork and raw ham, and black pudding or grated pumper- nickel and cream. If the above list does not warn the over-zealous inquirer, his indigestion be on his own head. In the south the cookery, though still indifferent, approximates more nearly to the French bourgeois cookery. The apple dumplings of South Germany are world-famous.