The one bird that we 'never get in
Belgium is grouse, unless it is brought over specially
from England or Scotland. It has always been found
impossible to rear grouse in the country. In the
neighbourhood of Spa there are great stretches of
moorlands reaching almost to the German frontier,
covered with heather, which look as if they would be
the ideal home of the grouse. Here M. Barry Herr-
feldt, formerly of the Chateau du Marteau at Spa, a
real good sportsman, tried his utmost to rear grouse ;
first he laid down thousands of eggs and set them
under partridges, but this proved a failure ; then he
introduced young birds, but they all died oflF, and I
think he has now given up the attempt in despair.
"Belgian Towns 137
Whilst speaking of partridges, I ought to mention
that there is no partridge in the world so plump and
sweet as one shot in the neighbourhood of Louvain,
where they feed on the beetroot cultivated for the
sugar factories. At a restaurant Coq de bruyere is often
served as grouse, but this is a blackcock. In many
of the Belgian towns out of the beaten track good
food can be obtained at tavernes and cafes, but as a
rule it is best to avoid those in the vicinity of railway
stations. It is well to go near the market-places.
On the Grand’ Place at Ypres, a wonderful old town
well worth a visit, there is an excellent La Chatellenie,
restaurant attached to the Hotel de la YPres
Chatellenie. The table d’hbte at 2 fr. 50 c. is remark-
able value for the money. Any one dining here should
ask to see the club rooms and pictures upstairs. There
is a good garage for automobiles here. At Thielt,
another small town in Western Flanders, I have also
eaten well for a reasonable price at the little Hotel de
l’Esperance on the market-place, opposite the belfry,
that has a very silvery carillon. The wines here —
Moselles and clarets especially — are of good vintage
years and well cellared. One last note : outside the
capital and at all but the best restaurants the Flemish
custom is to “dine” in the middle of the day and
u sup ” at about seven.
Antwerp
It is strange that a big city and seaport like
Antwerp, which is a favourite stopping-place of
English and American visitors to the Continent,
should have, so few good restaurants. None of the
establishments near the quays can be classed as
even third-rate, and it is in the neighbourhood of
the Bourse that the best eating-houses will be found.
At the Rocher de Cancale, usually called Colon’s
138 ^he Gourmet's Guide to Burope
(after the late proprietor), the cooking and the wines
are everything that can be desired, and the prices are
Rocher de by no means high. This restaurant is
Cancale, situated at the corner of the Place de
xiiMois68 Meir and the Rue des Douze Mois, a
little street leading down to the Bourse.
Antwerp has a grill-room that can be highly recom-
mended in the Criterium, situated on the Avenue
de Keyser, near the Central Railway Station. The
Criterium Criterium is also known as Keller's,
Avenue de and has a large English clientele . Be-
Keyser sides chops and steaks from the grill,
Page 76
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
The one bird that we 'never get in Belgium is grouse, unless it is brought over specially from England or Scotland. It has always been found impossible to rear grouse in the country. In the neighbourhood of Spa there are great stretches of moorlands reaching almost to the German frontier, covered with heather, which look as if they would be the ideal home of the grouse. Here M. Barry Herrfeldt, formerly of the Chateau du Marteau at Spa, a real good sportsman, tried his utmost to rear grouse ; first he laid down thousands of eggs and set them under partridges, but this proved a failure ; then he introduced young birds, but they all died off, and I think he has now given up the attempt in despair.
Belgian Towns 137
Whilst speaking of partridges, I ought to mention that there is no partridge in the world so plump and sweet as one shot in the neighbourhood of Louvain, where they feed on the beetroot cultivated for the sugar factories. At a restaurant Coq de bruyere is often served as grouse, but this is a blackcock. In many of the Belgian towns out of the beaten track good food can be obtained at tavernes and cafes, but as a rule it is best to avoid those in the vicinity of railway stations. It is well to go near the market-places. On the Grand’ Place at Ypres, a wonderful old town well worth a visit, there is an excellent La Chatellenie, restaurant attached to the Hotel de la Ypres Chatellenie. The table d'hôte at 2 fr. 50 c. is remarkable value for the money. Any one dining here should ask to see the club rooms and pictures upstairs. There is a good garage for automobiles here. At Thielt, another small town in Western Flanders, I have also eaten well for a reasonable price at the little Hotel de l’Esperance on the market-place, opposite the belfry, that has a very silvery carillon. The wines here — Moselles and clarets especially — are of good vintage years and well cellared. One last note : outside the capital and at all but the best restaurants the Flemish custom is to “dine” in the middle of the day and u sup ” at about seven.
Antwerp
It is strange that a big city and seaport like Antwerp, which is a favourite stopping-place of English and American visitors to the Continent, should have, so few good restaurants. None of the establishments near the quays can be classed as even third-rate, and it is in the neighbourhood of the Bourse that the best eating-houses will be found. At the Rocher de Cancale, usually called Colon’s
138 ^he Gourmet's Guide to Burope
(after the late proprietor), the cooking and the wines are everything that can be desired, and the prices are Rocher de by no means high. This restaurant is
Cancale, situated at the corner of the Place de
xiiMois68 Meir and the Rue des Douze Mois, a little street leading down to the Bourse. Antwerp has a grill-room that can be highly recommended in the Criterium, situated on the Avenue de Keyser, near the Central Railway Station. The Criterium Criterium is also known as Keller's,
Avenue de and has a large English clientele . Be-
Keyser sides chops and steaks from the grill,