comedy or operetta, most of the good travelling com- panies which tour in the winter playing short seasons here. The Casino de la Jetee also has a theatre, where operettas or a music hall entertainment are generally the attraction, and in the town there are the Olympia and Eldorado, each calling itself a Casino, where operetta is usually the attraction. There is also a new theatre behind La Belle Meuniere. At the Opera House, grand opera, often some quite new production, is sung on most days in the winter. The Capucines is a theatre which some winters opens, some winters is closed. Beaulieu At Beaulieu the Restaurant de la Reserve is famous. It is just a convenient distance for a drive from I Monte Carlo, and the world and the half-world drive 1 or motor out there from the town on the rock and sit at adjacent tables in the verandah without show- ing any objection one to the other. The restaurant is a little white building in a garden, with a long platform built out over the sea, so that breakfasting one looks right down upon a blue depth of water. There are tables inside the building, but the early- comers, and those wise people who have telephoned for tables, take those in the verandah if the day be sunny. There are tanks into which the water runs in and out with each little wave, and in these are the Marennes oysters and other shell-fish. Oysters, a Mostelle a /’ Anglai.se — Mostelle being the especial fish of this part of the world — and some tiny bit of meat is the breakfast I generally order at the Beaulieu i Reserve ; but the cook is capable of high flights, and I have seen most elaborate meals well served. 1 1 6 The Gourmet s Guide to Europe Monte Carlo The first time that I stayed for a week or so in the principality, I lodged at the Hotel du Monte Carlo, on the hill below the Post Office. It was a dingy hotel then, and the idea of converting it into the splendid sporting club had not yet entered M. Blanc’s mind ; but it had the supreme attraction to a lieutenant in a marching regiment of being cheap. When the first day at dinner I cast my eye down the wine-list, I found amongst the clarets wines of the great vintage years at extraordinarily low prices, and in surprise I asked the reason. The manager ex- plained to me that the hotel was in the early days used as a casino, and that the wines formed part of the cellar of the proprietor — whether M. Blanc, or another, I do not remember. Most of them were too old to bear removal to Paris, and they were put down on the wine-list at ridiculously low prices in order to get rid of them, for, as the manager said, “ In Monte Carlo the winners drink nothing but champagne, the losers water or whisky and soda.” So it is. In Monte Carlo, when a man has won, he wants the very best of everything, and does not mind what he pays for it ; when he has lost, he has no appetite, and grudges the money he pays for a chop in the grill-room of the Cafe de Paris. The prices at the restaurants are nicely adapted to the purses of the winners; and there is no place in the world where it is more necessary to order with discrimination and to ask questions as to prices. At Monte Carlo it is the custom to entirely dissociate your lodging from your feeding, and you may stay at one hotel and habitually feed at the restaurant of another without the proprietor of the first being at all unhappy. Giro’s

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comedy or operetta, most of the good travelling companies which tour in the winter playing short seasons here. The Casino de la Jetee also has a theatre, where operettas or a music hall entertainment are generally the attraction, and in the town there are the Olympia and Eldorado, each calling itself a Casino, where operetta is usually the attraction. There is also a new theatre behind La Belle Meuniere. At the Opera House, grand opera, often some quite new production, is sung on most days in the winter. The Capucines is a theatre which some winters opens, some winters is closed. Beaulieu At Beaulieu the Restaurant de la Reserve is famous. It is just a convenient distance for a drive from I Monte Carlo, and the world and the half-world drive 1 or motor out there from the town on the rock and sit at adjacent tables in the verandah without showing any objection one to the other. The restaurant is a little white building in a garden, with a long platform built out over the sea, so that breakfasting one looks right down upon a blue depth of water. There are tables inside the building, but the earlycomers, and those wise people who have telephoned for tables, take those in the verandah if the day be sunny. There are tanks into which the water runs in and out with each little wave, and in these are the Marennes oysters and other shell-fish. Oysters, a Mostelle a /’ Anglai.se — Mostelle being the especial fish of this part of the world — and some tiny bit of meat is the breakfast I generally order at the Beaulieu i Reserve ; but the cook is capable of high flights, and I have seen most elaborate meals well served. 1 1 6 The Gourmet s Guide to Europe Monte Carlo The first time that I stayed for a week or so in the principality, I lodged at the Hotel du Monte Carlo, on the hill below the Post Office. It was a dingy hotel then, and the idea of converting it into the splendid sporting club had not yet entered M. Blanc’s mind ; but it had the supreme attraction to a lieutenant in a marching regiment of being cheap. When the first day at dinner I cast my eye down the wine-list, I found amongst the clarets wines of the great vintage years at extraordinarily low prices, and in surprise I asked the reason. The manager explained to me that the hotel was in the early days used as a casino, and that the wines formed part of the cellar of the proprietor — whether M. Blanc, or another, I do not remember. Most of them were too old to bear removal to Paris, and they were put down on the wine-list at ridiculously low prices in order to get rid of them, for, as the manager said, “ In Monte Carlo the winners drink nothing but champagne, the losers water or whisky and soda.” So it is. In Monte Carlo, when a man has won, he wants the very best of everything, and does not mind what he pays for it ; when he has lost, he has no appetite, and grudges the money he pays for a chop in the grill-room of the Cafe de Paris. The prices at the restaurants are nicely adapted to the purses of the winners; and there is no place in the world where it is more necessary to order with discrimination and to ask questions as to prices. At Monte Carlo it is the custom to entirely dissociate your lodging from your feeding, and you may stay at one hotel and habitually feed at the restaurant of another without the proprietor of the first being at all unhappy. Giro’s

The gourmet's guide to Europe