Provencal Cookery
To those gourmets who care to go into the matter
of Provencal cookery, I can recommend the Cui-
siniere Proven^ale, by J. B. Reboul, which can be
bought at any of the Provencal towns. From it they
can learn of what Aigo-Sau is made, what Aioli and
Bourride are, how an Oursinade may be composed,
and the mode of cooking an anchovy tart, that a
Tourte is really a Vol-au-vent , and how to stuff a
cabbage so as to convert it into a Sou-Fassu.
O
Cannes
Cannes is the first important town of the Riviera
that the gourmet flying south comes to, and at Cannes
he will find a typical Riviera restaurant. The Reserve
at Cannes consists of one glassed-in
shelter and another smaller building Tlie R serve
on the rocks, which juts out into the sea from the
elbow of the Promenade de la Croisette. The spray
of the wavelets set up by the breeze splashes up against
the glass. To one side are the lies des Lerins, St.
Marguerite, and St. Honorat, where the liqueur Lerina
is made, shining on the deep blue sea, and to the other
the purple Montagnes de PEsterel stand up with a
wonderful jagged edge against the sky. Amongst
the rocks on which the building of the restaurant
no The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
stand are tanks, and in these swim fish, large and
small, the fine lazy dorades and the lively little sea-
gudgeon. One of the amusements of the place is
that the breakfasters fish out with a net the little
fishes which are to form a friture✪ Friture , or point out the
bigger victim which they will presently eat for their
meal. The cooking is simple and good, and with fish
that thirty minutes before were swimming in the
green water, an omelette, a simple dish of meat, and
a pint of Cerons, or other white wine✪ Breakfast Dish, a man may
breakfast in the highest content, looking at some of
the sunniest scenes in the world. There is always
some little band of Italian musicians playing and
singing at the Reserve, and though in London one
would vote them a nuisance, at Cannes the music
seems to fit in with the lazy pleasure of breakfasting
almost upon the waves, and the throaty tenor who
has been singing of Santa Lucia gets a lining of
francs to his hat. Most of the crowned heads who
make holiday at Cannes have taken their breakfast
often enough in the little glass summer-house, but
the prices are in no way alarming. A new dining
and supping place has been given to
The Casino Cannes by the building of the Muni-
cipal Casino. The Casino stands on the Croisette,
and the windows of its great white restaurant look on
to the wide sea-wall and promenade on one side,
to the harbour on another side, and out to sea on
a third side. The manager, M. Renaud, is one of
M. Ritz’s lieutenants of old days, and everything is
done with the finish of a first-class establishment. It
is the place at which most of the fashionable dinner-
parties of Cannes are now given. It is not cheap, but
all the prices are marked against the dishes on the bill
of fare, and no man need order an expensive meal
unless he is inclined to do so. I found that my average
bill for breakfast came to between 8 and IQ francs,
French ^Provincial Towns 1 1 1
Page 62 · 2 recipe records on this page
Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
AI-modernized reading of the original text
Provencal Cookery
To those gourmets who care to go into the matter of Provencal cookery, I can recommend the Cuisinière Provençale, by J. B. Reboul, which can be bought at any of the Provencal towns. From it they can learn of what Aïgo-Saü is made, what Aioli and Bourride are, how an Oursinade may be composed, and the mode of cooking an anchovy tart, that a Tourte is really a Vol-au-vent , and how to stuff a cabbage so as to convert it into a Sou-Fassum.
O
Cannes
Cannes is the first important town of the Riviera that the gourmet flying south comes to, and at Cannes he will find a typical Riviera restaurant. The Reserve at Cannes consists of one glassed-in shelter and another smaller building Tlie R serve on the rocks, which juts out into the sea from the elbow of the Promenade de la Croisette. The spray of the wavelets set up by the breeze splashes up against the glass. To one side are the lies des Lerins, St. Marguerite, and St. Honorat, where the liqueur Lerina is made, shining on the deep blue sea, and to the other the purple Montagnes de PEsterel stand up with a wonderful jagged edge against the sky. Amongst the rocks on which the building of the restaurant
no The Gourmet's Guide to Europe
stand are tanks, and in these swim fish, large and small, the fine lazy dorades and the lively little seagudgeon. One of the amusements of the place is that the breakfasters fish out with a net the little fishes which are to form a friture , or point out the bigger victim which they will presently eat for their meal. The cooking is simple and good, and with fish that thirty minutes before were swimming in the green water, an omelette, a simple dish of meat, and a pint of Cerons, or other white wine, a man may breakfast in the highest content, looking at some of the sunniest scenes in the world. There is always some little band of Italian musicians playing and singing at the Reserve, and though in London one would vote them a nuisance, at Cannes the music seems to fit in with the lazy pleasure of breakfasting almost upon the waves, and the throaty tenor who has been singing of Santa Lucia gets a lining of francs to his hat. Most of the crowned heads who make holiday at Cannes have taken their breakfast often enough in the little glass summer-house, but the prices are in no way alarming. A new dining and supping place has been given to The Casino Cannes by the building of the Municipal Casino. The Casino stands on the Croisette, and the windows of its great white restaurant look on to the wide sea-wall and promenade on one side, to the harbour on another side, and out to sea on a third side. The manager, M. Renaud, is one of M. Ritz’s lieutenants of old days, and everything is done with the finish of a first-class establishment. It is the place at which most of the fashionable dinnerparties of Cannes are now given. It is not cheap, but all the prices are marked against the dishes on the bill of fare, and no man need order an expensive meal unless he is inclined to do so. I found that my average bill for breakfast came to between 8 and IQ francs,
French ^Provincial Towns 1 1 1
Records on this page
FritureBreakfast Dish