FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 59

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Those adventurous souls with strong stomachs, who wish to eat the fry of sea-urchins and other highly savoury dishes, with strange Bregaillon's, shell-fish, and other extraordinary deni- Quay de la zens of the deep as their foundation, Fraternit® should go to Bregaillon’s at the Vieux Port. Bre- gaillon’s has lately absorbed another restaurant, Bosso’s — or rather Bosso’s has absorbed Bregaillon’s. Both restaurants are much alike. Each has in front of it a long stall with shell-fish on it. If you pause a moment to look at these a waiter dashes at you and shows you the menu of the meal which is being served in the restaurant. It is necessary to have a liking for garlic and a nose that fears no smells for this ad- 104 Gourmet's Guide to Europe venture ; but if you bring your courage to the sticking point, order a dozen oursins , a petit poelon , which is a tournedos in a casserole , and a grive. Gigot a F Ail is one of the dishes of the house, and a Coquille des Fruits de Mer , a rechauffe of all the shell-fish of the southern sea, is another. A John Dory with a Sauce Poivrade is one of Bregaillon’s triumphs. Cassis is a white wine of the house; and "it has some good Chateau Neuf de Pape. The best wine, however, of the house is the Pouilly Suisse, the Suisse being the name of the proprietor of the vineyard. Mistral’s, a little more gilded and a little gayer than the two restaurants noted above, is next door to them. Mistral’s, 7 Que Its proprietor is Alphone Cassino, and de la Fraternity its table d'hote meals cost 2.50 francs and 3 francs, including half a bottle of white or red wine. One can almost smell the garlic as one reads this menu of one of the breakfasts : — Coquillages ou Hors-d'oeuvre. Bouillabaisse ou Loup remoulade. Petits des Italienne. Entrecote grillee au Cresson. Pommes Macaire. Dessert. J Vin blanc ou rouge. Isnard’s, the official name of which is the Hotel des Phoceans, at the crossing of two ‘ back streets — isnard’s, Rue Rues Thubaneau and Recollettes — just Thubaneau off the Cours Belsunce, is in high favour with the upper classes of the Marseillaise. The cookery here is always good, and if you order Bouillabaisse you have to wait twenty minutes while it is cooked for you, and you only. The Brasserie de Strasbourg, in the big square French Provincial Towns 105 opposite the Bourse, is where many of the business men of the town lunch, and that in Brasserie de itself is a proof that the food is good. Strasbourg-, On a great slate over the front door Place du Bourse the dishes of the day, all of good southern bourgeois cookery, are written in white. The English Chop House of Richard, in the Rue Pavilion, a little traverse connecting the Cours St. Louis with the Rue St. Ferriol, is a English Chop noticeable little place of good cookery. House, 12 Rue Richard is a Frenchman, and has been Pavillon chef in very high places. In full canonicals he stands over his batter ie de cuisine and cooks his creations. The salon particulier in this little temple of good living is screened off, like the squire’s pew, by a grille. The Cafe Restaurant Boudoul, on the first floor of which is the best club of the town, is Caf(i Boudoul, the Carlton of Marseilles. It has a 18 Rue st. fixed price dinner and breakfast. Here Ferrio1 you may be sure that you dine in good company.