FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 45

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
„ ^ „ . tainment at the Hotel Casino. The Hotel du Casino , . , restaurant has a special reputation achieved, in the first place, by “ Papa ” Paul Graaf, who was one of the chefs at the Tuileries in the days of Napoleon III. A gourmet en voyage writes thus to me of M. Gras : “ Gras is a very shrewd fellow who adds every year to his hotel accommodation, French Provincial Towns 77 which is extremely simple — no gorgeous furniture or anything of that sort. The place is not cheap, and for meals a la carte the charges are by no means low. But the food is good and uncommonly well cooked. Gras looks after his business very closely, and is proud of his kitchens and larders, which he loves to show to visitors. His wines are good and not too expensive, and he can cook you a lobster a /’ Americaine as well as it can be done in any New York restaurant. My impression of the Hotel du Casino is that it is a second- rate place run in first-rate style.” Etretat Hotel Blanquet At Etretat there is a Cafe Restaurant in the Casino where a dejeuner, vin compris , is obtainable for 4 francs, and a dinner for 5 francs ; but most of the English settled in Normandy go either to the Hotel Hauville or the Hotel Blanquet for any meals when they visit this seaside town, the prices at the Roches-Blanches being somewhat frightening. The Hotel Blanquet charges 4.75 francs for its dejeuner served at separate tables. Havre Havre is one of the towns in which the Englishman or American crossing to Southampton or coming thence often finds himself for some hours. Tortoni’s in the market-place has a reputation for good Tortoni, Place cookery. Judging from the two or Gambetta three dinners I have eaten there, both a la carte and the table d’hote one at 5 francs — eight courses and a pint of wine for one’s money — the cookery is of the good solid bourgeois order. Tortoni’s Hotel Restaurant must not be confounded with the Brasserie Tortoni quite close to it, which is a bachelor’s resort 5 and 78 The Gourmet's Guide to Europe which I, as a bachelor, have found very amusing sometimes after dinner. Frascati’s Restaurant, an adjunct to the big hotel on the sea-shore, is the classic restaurant of the place, Frascati, Rue and many a man who has come over du Perrey by the midnight boat and has stayed For a bathe and a meal at Frascati’s before going on to Paris by the mid-day train has breakfasted there in content. The Ecrevisses Bordelaises , the Croutes aux Champignons , the Salade Russe here have left me pleasant memories. In the winter the chef retires to Paris or elsewhere, and the restaurant is not to be so thoroughly trusted ; and sometimes when a crowd of passengers are going across to Southampton by the night boat to catch an American steamer, I have found the attendance very sketchy, owing to the waiters having more work than they can do satisfactorily. The res- taurant in summer is in the verandah facing the sea. The Hotel de Normandie is a hostel at which the Hotel de Nor- cooking and the wines are good. This mandie, Rue de is a menu of a table d’hote diner maigre Paris served there on Good Friday, and it is an excellent example of a meal without meat : — Bisque d’ Ecrevisses. Reine Christine. Filets de Soles Normande. Nouillettes Napolitaine en Caisse. Saumon de la Loire Tartare. Sorbets Supreme Fecamp. Coquille de Homard a l’Americaine. Sarcelles sur Canape.