FoodNet

The gourmet's guide to Europe

1903

Page 24

Presented as published in 1903. Historical recipes may not meet modern food-safety standards. Cook from the modern interpretation, not the original instructions.
Boilave’s, just off the Faubourg Montmartre, at the corner of the Rue Montyon, has oysters in baskets, and bottles and shell-fish in its windows. Boilave’s, It would be taken by the uninitiated to Rue Montyon be a bar, but in the side street is an entrance to the restaurant, and the dining-rooms will be found on the first floor. Boilave’s holds in Paris very much the position that the Cheshire Cheese did in London before it was discovered by the American tourists. The Redacteurs-en-Chef and Secretaires de la Re- daction congregate there. Only women cooks are employed, and the cuisine is kept rigorously bour- geoise, none of the foreign introductions which have been accepted by the haute cuisine being permitted. Muller’s, in the Rue Pasquier, which is another journalistic resort, is one of the few Muller’s, remaining little “ dives ” which never Rue Pasquier close. Of course the Coq d’Or, the entrance to the restaurant of which is in the Rue St. Coq d,Qr Marc, is the best known of all the Rue Montmartre resorts of Parisian journalists. It is and Rue st. Marc part cafe, part restaurant, the restaurant being de- corated in the nouveau art style, while the cafe is all of dark woods. Maire’s, at the corner of the Boulevards St. Denis and Strasbourg, is the connecting link between the smart restaurant and the bourgeois one. At one time it used to be very smart indeed, but its cuisine then was no better than it is now. If a Frenchman is taking his wife to the Theatre Antoine or the Scala, he dines previously at Maire’s. There Maire are many dishes of the house, all good. 14 Boulevard The poulet Maire is an excellent bird, st- Denis there is no better fillet of beef than that which bears the name of the house, and its Sole a la Russe is excel- lent. There is on the wine list a Beaujolais which is named Charbonnier, and which is, in a way, connected 40 The Gourmet' s Guide to Europe with the rise of the house from very small beginnings. The first proprietor of the restaurant found in the cellar of what had been a small wine-shop rows of bottles under a heap of charcoal. He called the wine Charbonnier, and its fame went abroad. The present Charbonnier is the successor of that first famed Beau- jolais. I am told that Maire’s under new manage- ment hopes to recover its former supper trade. There are restaurants still further up the boule- vards which deserve notice. When the Folies Dramatiques or the Ambigu Theatres have, either of Gosselin, them, a successful play, the Restaurant 50 Rue de Bondy Gosselin, a quiet little a la carte estab- lishment at the corner of the Rues de Bondy and de Lancry, reaps a harvest ; and if any adventurous British theatre-goer ever journeys so far as the Theatre Dejazet, he may safely dine at the Restaurant Bon- Bonvalet valet, on the Boulevard du Temple. 29 Boulevard The Bonvalet, which is painted brown du Temple outside up to the third story, and which has some big saloons for marriage feasts and banquets, is a house with some history attached to it. Under the name of the Cafe Turc, it was a fashionable gathering-place in the days of the First Empire. Ladies used to go there to sup, and as a concession to these fair visitors no smoking was allowed in the cafe. The Bonvalet provides table d'hote meals as well as a la carte ones, and I have dined there in the days of my youth very satisfyingly for three francs.